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Here’s the Kestrel. Another old BYOC kit!

No, I hadn’t seen that TSC page before. Will definitely bookmark that one, thanks. Apparently the Caracaras used only be common in south Texas, but they’ve been expanding northward in the last few decades. The other more falcon-y looking falcons we see most commonly in central TX are Kestrels...

Thanks! I’ve enjoyed seeing your excellent bird-themed builds as well. They are etched, yes. I use this method: https://www.instructables.com/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/

…well, okay only one finished Muff at the moment. Second coming soon. I’ve had a GGG Op-Amp Muff kit sitting around forever, and a BYOC NYC Muff kit (guess it’ll be my last BYOC build 😢) only slightly less long. Finished the Op-Amp on Saturday. Features a Crested Caracara, pretty common site...

Here’s a CV-able, DC-coupled dual VCA in pedal format (runs off a standard 9V center-neg supply, too) : https://www.hungryrobotpedals.com/vca Can’t vouch for it personally, but it looks very handy, and the price isn’t bad.

If you’ve got a modular synth, the safe easy way to do this is: • build the pedal with the normal TRS jack • get a TRS-to-dual TS splitter cable, and patch to the In and Out of a VCA module • use your CVs (Beatstep, LFO, etc.) to modulate the VCA This way the pedal can only get back a...

Looks like a great big fat pedal. And the Goodbye Horses riff is the lotion on the cake!

Those flat-nose mini pliers also work good, especially if your just trying to break off 1 or 2.

Around the same time, or maybe slightly before, I started doing pedals, I bought some bulk cable and 1/4” mono connectors from Redco. Got plenty of basic soldering practice and ended up with custom length cables for all my gear.

I’d say start with a kit. Parts sourcing is a whole additional skill to learn. I wouldn’t add that layer of complication when you’re still trying to learn the soldering/building part. But when you do get to the point of buying blank PCBs and sourcing your own components, I found this...

I’m partial to the other ‘80s/90s alternative band cover of Tower of Song, myself;)

Could be a good way to do several transfers at once. And if it doesn’t work, you can console yourself with some pancakes 🥞 ;)

I’m turning it all the way up actually. Not sure what F° it equates to, but definitely maxed. Did it the same way with my old iron (trusty thrift store Black and Decker “travel iron” with folding handle!) too.

Thanks! Hadn’t done much etching in a while, and had gotten a little rusty on some of the finer points. But I’m dialing it back in. I need to take better notes! ;) Main thing for me (aside from paying attention to outside temps) has been making sure my enclosures are sanded really well in order...

Just did a few more etches today. Paid a lot closer attention to the time (given the heat outside), pulled them out periodically and gave them a water dunk and light scrubbing with a soft-bristled toothbrush, then back into the etchant as needed. Much more consistent results:) PedalPCB...

Does electrolysis yield better results? i.e. better detail/less pitting? Or does it just save you having to use/store hazardous chemicals? Also ‘weeding’ the vinyl (Cricut, et al) can get pretty tedious for more detailed designs, even if the machine is able to cut it.

I bend the leads (also at 45°- ish), and use a Panavise with this head: Easy to flip/reorient the PCB as needed. Never had any serious issues with de-soldering bent leads either.

Good call. Ambient temperature seems like a totally obvious variable, that somehow never occurred to me before;) Did I mention that I’m in Austin, TX where it was near or maybe at 100° this afternoon when I was doing my etching…out in the back yard.

Tried to etch a few enclosures today, but didn’t really get it dialed in until attempt number 3, pictured here. I think my etchant ended up stronger than I’m used to after I topped up the chemicals (muriatic acid and peroxide) recently. First two etches had excessive pitting, will have to redo...

Interesting 🧐 And the reason we can’t just stick a resistor there instead is that the coil has inductive reactance rather than just straight resistance! I remember this one from ‘AC Theory’ class in my IBEW apprenticeship;)