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Ah man. I had the large MadBean version, sold it. Great, now I'm going to have to build it....again.

Yep, that’s it. Overlooked jt when I was looking through the datasheet - I’m usually finding the diameter of the shaft or overall size. I appreciate you helping me find it.

Does anyone know what the thread is for an Alpha 3P4T rotary switch? I think I might have lost the nuts for them and probably need to pick up a few to replace and have on hand (because I'm good at losing hardware). Thanks!

We’ve all been there. So, the LED works but no sound. +9V is working…ish. Can you gator clip the input and output to the jacks of a working pedal (input of known pedal to input of the frost drive board; out of frost drive to the tip of the output jack)? That way it would isolate the jacks and...

Did you accidentally plug I your guitar incorrectly? Not saying I haven’t done that ever, but…. Maybe something is accidentally shorting somewhere

I replaced my cheap iron from Circuit Specialists with another. I’ve also order some parts and haven’t had issues so far. They seem to have a decent variety of soldering supplies. That’s my .05 of experience with CS. But I’m just one dingus.

Those Bogner Fish command good money (and sound really good). The mystique of them probably drives the prices up (plus rarity). And chickenhead knobs are good in the right application. You can always will it to me! 😂😂

If you buy that, you can send it my way.

Reverse taper is so nice on a lot of controls.

You might even find that you leave the fuzz cranked, so you wouldn’t even need a potentiometer there - you’d replace it with a resistor (I did on mine)

After looking at the orange schematics, they really are quite simple. Only weirdness is the FAC tone control and the cathodyne (I think?) PI — more like a tweed fender PI. I think you can build it!

Look at that 1/4W being an awesome big buddy giving little buddy a piggy back ride!

And that's where I get goofed, because when you change 470n to 1uF to 22uF in amp circuits, gain and frequencies passing change. That's a great way to think -- 1uF or more on ins/outs (in cases but not always) is a "blocker"

Makes sense. I figured that had a little bit more impact on it to shape the output. I'm not that circuit smart. :)

I didn't read the schematic right -- sorry. Couldn't zoom, so I missed the volume pot (needed more coffee!). To answer, c13 will change the tone some..it will allow more/less bass. The c13/R15 is a filter (explained aboved). JWin explains it pretty well, and gives a great link to the frequency...

I can't zoom in on that picture on my phone well, but it's connected to the dpdt foot switch. So, important to the switching circuit but not to the overall RAT sound.

Sometimes the easiest answer is the obvious answer. But at least you KNOW it works. Then, you can compare the schematic from in to our and learn what happens. Oh, and if there's a POP sound in the speakers you found the V+!

We all have to start somewhere!

Self-reply: it was the Flamma power supply causing issues. I tried my OneSpot (that's only 2 spots) and it works fine without noise. Single coils pick up noise, but that's to be expected. Thanks for the suggestions to look at the power supply as a culprit. I still might sneak another power...

Look at these people with all their big brains. I'll look at different options and see what works. Hope I can find the solution.