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heck yeah. that quad bias control. oof. gonna need a demo asap 🤙🏻

+1 same.

in general, i avoid PCBs that demand 9mm pots.

i'm pretty sure you've seen it already

i can see your point. but, have you ever had a set sockets fail on you? i used to love sockets and thought they were the bees knees, but since i’ve had a few of them fail (after repeated use, in similar testing scenarios) i kinda try and avoid them where possible. (because sockets will punish...

but once you have a circuit breadboarded, you can swap out and do whatever the hell you like with it. there's nothing you've described above that couldn't be done with a breadboard rig. the only benefit i can see with the socket scenario is that it's a bit more robust than throwing a breadboard...

may as well be breadboarding at that point

it appears to be like this (perhaps inadvertently) by design. but it can be remedied. i had to change some values to reduce the input signal from clipping the PT2399, as it comes in way too hot and clips with the stock values. (mods described here). i get the feeling a lot of people that shit...

im using middle pickup switch position for a bigger low end and mid scoop. it’s definitely not dark on the bridge pickup. Yes. Q1c around 0.7-0.8V, Q2c about 5V. (regardless, Q2c resistor is a trimpot for seasonal/taste adjustment) nah, not cool, sounds like shite to me. i don't like gated...

after beginning my dive into breadboarding with some soviet NPN Ge, i wasn’t really all that excited with the sounds i was initially getting on the fuzz face circuit. briefly tried silicons, still wasn’t that great, although the ones i tried were like 350hfe (bc108). gonna have to revisit a...

gosh that’s cool, i’m gonna have to build one of these eventually. great demo 🤟🏻🤟🏻

i've noticed the pestle (eqd zoar) does this too:

dank 🤙 ive got x10 of these already from a previous order, but thought I might grab some more, or something else to try while im doing an order a land where a dollar isn't worth much oh hell yeah, these are a great price! will give them a go.

alright, im on mouser, considering ordering some modern low gain silicons: (im working with dollarydoos here): 2N3903: x1 - $1.11 , x10 - $0.683 2N2369: x1 - $4.88 , x10 - $3.38 2N3700: x1 - $4.08 , x10 - $3.38 2N3705: x1 - $1.82 , x10 - $1.22 2N2221: x1 - $13.38, x10 - $13.37 lol...

im not so sure that the gain of any particular transistors really need to be matching in this circuit, it appears to be more about those diodes and components around them

for best octave, D1 and D4 need to be matching. and preferably close to 0.33v forward voltage. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/foxx-tone-machine-pedalpcb-d9b-ok.21947/post-277871 and if you really wanna be pedantic, measuring and matching R5+R4, R11+R10, and C3+C4 can help too.

100W? fender? how about: https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Fender/Fender_bassman_100_schem.pdf https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Fender/Fender_showman_aa763_schematic.pdf (minus the vibe) https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Fender/Fender_tonemaster.pdf

this one that you linked appears to put out 1.5W https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Toshiba/TTA008BQ?qs=B6kkDfuK7%2FAb0K%252Be3vU9lw%3D%3D the 2SB891 referenced above appears to handle up to 5W. you'd probably wanna sub with something that will match or exceed that power dissipation rating.