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LMS is where I go for pretty knobs. Stompboxparts is where I go for more standard knobs such as any Davies clones - 1510, 1611, or 1900. There's a lot of overlap and I like supporting both.

Chuck, can I do college over again and have you as my thesis advisor?

What I ended up doing is a bit overkill, but... I ended up doing everything in Google Sheets. I have a workbook with a number of spreadsheets for parts, and a number for builds I want to do (or have done). I populate the build sheet with a list of parts from the documentation, and then there are...

So if they sound the same, is it even worth it to use sockets? Well, I guess it would to protect the diodes from the soldering iron... What should I look for in a circuit to determine that the stats on the datasheet would really matter? Any examples where it might actually make a noticeable...

Hi, I'm gonna resurrect this thread to ask, what makes for a good Ge diode in this circuit? I have a handful of 1N34A's and some 1N270's. I might also get some more from Smallbear just to have some variety in my parts drawers. Other than "socket them and see," which I plan to do anyway, is there...

Anecdotal, but my last ( ) build was my third, and the only one that gave me issues. Boost killed the signal entirely. Through the course of my troubleshooting, it turned out that (1) I had fake PF5102's and (2) done a crappy job with my off-board wiring. Oh yeah... Dummy check: did you turn up...

It looks (a) cool, and (b) like I know what I'm doing.

I got 24 prebond for most "long" connections such as the jacks to the footswitch. I ordered mine from Smallbear. I also use 24 stranded, and 24 or 22 solid. One of my favorite things to do is use fully stripped 22 solid as a flexible series of jumpers between a board and the 3PDT breakout...

On that note, is there a good source for a normal library of components? Even the NPN list seems wonky on mine.

Oh yeah I should probably tag @Chuck D. Bones and @fig since they seem to know what's up.

I think something is wrong with my library. No BS170 or anything else that looks.... simple.

TIL pot pins will damage the board over time. Good thing I haven't done it to my board very much. Still hoping the ProtoBoard makes a comeback.

I stumbled onto vero by way of tagboardeffects.blogspot.com. I built my most recent circuit and liked it, but since it was prone to errors and there were a lot of wires, I manually traced that layout (I hate that they don't provide schematics), triple-checked it, and used it to make my first...

My answers, paying no mind to the OP's request for European shopping: Solder: Kester 60/40, .031", which is like .8mm Desoldering: Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker. Also, whatever copper braid came with my soldering iron kit. Wire: Smallbear 24AWG and 22AWG pre-bonded, or 22AWG solid. I have uses...

These: https://www.jimdunlop.com/jazz-iii-pick-variety-pack/ But also some peso picks from this guy: https://reverb.com/shop/thehighlandplectrumco

Yeah, once someone buys another pedal from me, a can of the WD-40 contact cleaner is at the top of my list. Well, that and it's time to re-do my potentiometer inventory.

Oh yeah, I forgot... Here's Kodachrome 40 Type A. Tungsten-balanced slide film. Cool stuff.

Kodachrome 25: Kodachrome 64:

fuzzy wire?

Thanks @PedalPCB and everyone else on this forum!