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I have a hunch, but no way to prove it, and its based on something I have only seen a few times. You could have a flakey component. Its rare but it does happen. I once troubleshot a bistable amplifier for 2 weeks before I found a component that would fail, and only under certian conditions...

...but it doesn't :unsure:

I doesn't look bad, a good cleaning does wonders. And you have continuity on all those points, this should work

OK lets check continuity of board, BTW I'm not used to taking this kind of a butt whooping from electronics, so its a good one. If you measure between the colored circles, you should have near zero ohms readings

WTF

I hate winter time!!! Luckily I have a work space in my house.:)

You should get clean readings on the solder pads, unless the solder joints are cold. Zooming in on the pics they get blurry, and on some the joints look ok and on others I can clearly make out the lead, which could be a cold joint. Try to reflow R101 and R102. After touching the joint, wait till...

Yes it could, but if you took at the schematic, measuring from the 9V pad to ground pad, there are only 3 components, the 1N5817 R101 and R102. If you measure them you get ok values. If you can, try to measure the 3 components from back side of board, try to stay on solder joints only, not the...

If you go from one side of R101 then the other side of R101 then about 4.7K is right, thats R101

That is alright, the only time when everything goes right is when your not trying

Alrighty then, you may have an open in power supply section. When you measured from the voltage divider to pin 3 and pin 6 of the ic which resistor did you measure from?

That’s not what I was expecting! But it could mean we are close. Recheck the last measurement 9V pad and ground pad. If you check it and it goes right to OL that’s ok. It may, if C100 can’t discharge.

One other thing, when taking the measurement, red lead to 9v and black to ground pad, this way you forward bias the diode

Yes!! It’s the easiest way to measure the resistors and it also checks continuity through that part of the circuit

Crap, R101 to IC 6 should be about 9.5K so 8.5 is OK, my bad higher math kicked my butt. So all these look good. Everything is pointing back to voltage divider, try to measure resistance across R101 and R102. You should be able to get this from backside +9 and ground pads

DARN IT!!! Thank You for pulling that cap though! Based on the info you provided C101 was high on my list. Here was the reasoning. On R101 8.2V on top but .47V on bottom, this is your main issue, could be caused by short to ground anywhere in Vref path, open on R101(resistor or cold solder...

Should be able to. the 10u should work, you may hear a little more noise or "hum". The 47u should work also, but never seen the first cap smaller than second cap. Normally I see like 100u and 47u. My gut says a 47 should work, but then my gut could be hitting the crack pipe right now!

OK the R3 connection is questionable, reflow that. Also the R2 connection on the inside of the board, it has a ball shape to it in pics, this is a sign a joint could be cold. Both R2 and R3 would keep voltage from pins 3 and 6. Add a little solder to R3 and reflow R2, with as much solder as...

It's more of a challenge with out the pics :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

OK those didn't change from the initial readings earlier. With out the 4 to 5 volts on pins 3 and 6, this circuit will not work right. I'm assuming you still have .47 between R101 and R102 also. You also stated you have 4.7K across R102, it should be 5.6K. You may have a leaky cap. The most...