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That’s fine, but I still appreciate the effort you put into trying to help. That was my point ?

Happy to announce that this pedal has been fixed! I put a jumper from pin 5 to 7 on ic4 and now it doesn’t die and the bass pot works(its now a linear instead of rev log pot so it reacts all wrong, but that I can live with at least for now). Thank you all for your help. Especially Music6000! I...

Ok... everyone og them gave some low measurements, but no zeros.

Good tip! But they all check out. No zero readings.

Would seem like the continuity-test on my cheap ass dmm isn’t working. I need to get that sorted out or see if I can borrow one to make these tests.

Cheers man! I’ll do this tonight when I’m home ?

It’s just frustrating dude :) In the picture it looks close, but those points has never touched and the 3pdt is soldered to the spesifications of the build docs. At the very least I’ll step back a bit before looking at it again. What I know is this: The pedal works fine for about 10-15 minutes...

Sounds about right. Couldn’t imagine that being the issue, but for now it’s all I’ve got.

That was my thinking when using them, but I’m out of ideas now. Changed the pot. Tested the new pot before putting it in, and yes, it had a difference when turned, but when I put it in it reacted like the other one. No difference on measurements when turning the pot and no difference to the...

Yeah I’m down to two theories. The bad pot or the two resistors that are 22k instead of 20k. Those are have to do with voltage and it sounds like a voltage issue, but how a jumpstart at c12 gets it back to life will be a bigger mystery.

Also found out the pedal shortcuts if I touch the solderjoints of r16 an r24 simoultaneously.

Issue still there :( but yeah, it comes back when the solderpoints are touced..

I’ve replaced it and will now have to wait 10-15 minutes and see if the pedal is still alive. It was a high quality wima cap in that position. Annoying if it turns out to be the responsible component.

Sorry, I mean C12!

Ok I’ve made some progress. When the dying starts happening I physically touch the solderingspots of C22, then the pedal comes right back to life. Would suppose that means that cap is bad. I’m waiting for the pedal to die again to make the same test with other caps to see if it’s an isolated...

No difference outside the enclosure and bent further from the board. Dmm set to 200k it shows about 07.0 either way. The mid pot which is also a rev log 100k shows the same all the way down, but double all the way up measured on 1 and 2. Mirrored measurements if I measure 2 and 3. But it’s that...

I didn’t have any 20k resistors so R32 and R35 are 22k. Could that have anything to do with it?

Yeah that’s how I measured the pot!

Really helpful info guys! I measured the pot and yeah, it’s not working properly. I’ll get it changed. It showed pretty much the same value clockwise as counterclockwise. Here are pictures. I know it ain’t pretty, but I can’t see any cold solders or things touching that shouldn’t touch.

Hey Man! thanx for replying. I can def try changing the DC-jack. I’d be really happy if it’s that easy. now for the noob-reply: I have a dmm, but not sure how I’d test the pot. I have decent soldering skills, but still working on my theoretical knowledge in this field. Dust cover?