Search results

Hi @phi1 , I came across this post of yours while looking for details on a Diamond Compressor with a blend control and just wondered what your thoughts might be on choosing between the "Zirconia Jr." board you used here (https://lectric-fx.com/product/zirc-jr-optical-compressor/) and...

Yes, I was anticipating the volume drop and thought I'd test a variety of diode pairs in addition to the BAT41s to see if I could find a happy compromise between extra gain and volume loss...never thought about putting R4 on the switch too (mostly because I didn't know that was its function!).

Thanks @manfesto. So, if I was to put those BAT41 diodes on a switch, I shouldn't hear that "mid-cut" until I engage the extra diodes?

Hi everyone, I've been reading a little more about the sonic differences between the Greer Lightspeed and Southland overdrives and the general consensus seems to be that the Southland is more "mid-scooped" (in addition to the differences in gain). Looking at the PedalPCB schematics for the...

Apologies...you are right @Feral Feline, C5 on the Anomaly is C4 on the Awful Waffle. I believe the vero layout is a closer match to the PedalPCB circuit (see below). I have simply replaced the 470p cap with a DPDT switch wired like this: input to middle right, output to middle left 470p...

Hi folks, I'm currently working on a HotCake build using a vero layout and wanted to implement a suggested mod to create a "bright switch" based on the stock 470pf cap (C4 on PedalPCB's Awful Waffle). The suggestions I've read say to put the 470pf cap on one side of a DPDT and a jumper on the...

Thanks! I definitely lean towards sockets for ALL my transistors these days...a) to allow for experimentation with various transistors...and b) to reduce the chance of damaging the transistors.

Thanks @HamishR, your points are well taken...especially since I've read similar comments about the Timmy connection and I already have a rehoused "V1" Danelectro Transparent Overdrive in my collection (not to mention recent builds of OTHER "transparent overdrives" like the ODR1 and Klon). I...

Would it be wiser for me to just stick with one of the two options I've already been given or split the difference (i.e. 47uf rather than 22uf or 100uf)?

Thanks for the replies (and the link to the power supply discussion, that was helpful!). Based on your comments, I went back to the vero layout for review and can now see what @Brett sees in terms of the two 22uf filter caps being REPLACED by two 100uf caps. Sounds like I'm probably safe...

A while back I built a PedalPCB Mach1 for a friend of mine and was recently reminded how great the circuit sounds. Knowing that the component count is relatively low, I looked into a couple of vero layouts and noticed that the one found here...

After mis-printing my original Depot enclosure, I ordered a replacement for my completed board mounted circuit and then got my hands on a second PCB so I could wire the pots to match the wonky enclosure. I'm quite happy with both builds now (including the cap switch that selects between the...

Thanks @Chuck D. Bones! This is not only a huge help for me in this specific instance but, as I hinted at with @Big Monk above, it's also TOTALLY inspirational in terms of where I hope to get with my comprehension for pedal circuits!

Still test driving different transistors to see if I can find THE combination. Right now it has a group of 2N5088s that increase in hfe from Q1 (~220) to Q2 (~235) to Q3 (~380) to Q4 (~405) but, if I can be perfectly honest, I haven't heard much difference as I swap them in and out. I also had...

Thanks everyone! I hadn't found any discussion of Dung Beetle or Scarab Deluxe hfe so I figured the circuit must sound pretty good with a wide range of gain. Thankfully there are folks like @Big Monk who understand the circuit in ways that I hope to some day and I will definitely take his...

Hi everyone! I just dropped four 2N5088s into my completed Dung Beetle PCB to make sure it worked before boxing everything up...and it did (YAY!)...but I thought that I would ask if there was a consensus on hfe values for the Dung Beetle. Looks like the four I chose measure around 235 hfe but...

The Beavis site recommended a B10k potentiometer with a 2.2k resistor but I followed Zachary Vex's recommendation for a B5k pot and substituted a 1.2k resistor since my pot choice had a lower overall resistance.

You're right @zgrav, the "dying battery box" was dead simple and bound to come in handy - I'll definitely be trying this little box on just about everything now!

Quick follow up...built this to adjust the input voltage on my Marigold build (and any other 9V centre negative pedal I want to play with) based on a couple of suggestions on Beavis Audio (and Zachary Vex's suggestion to use a 5k potentiometer). Hooked it up to my Marigold and was able to...

Thanks @mdc. Just scanning the interwebs for tips on dying battery simulators (schematics, potentiometer values, etc.) as I'm now thinking a separate box might be useful for test driving that kind of mod on other pedals too. In my case, I don't really need it to mimic ALL of the parameters...