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Now that I see what the FV1 internal programs are, I see the benefit of what you're saying here. I like this idea of installing a switch a lot actually. Just a simple SPDT, right? If I can get this thing to work I might steal your idea lol

Interesting.... I will get ahold of them tomorrow. Maybe it's as simple as they sent me the wrong thing. Also, I feel like a moron asking so many little questions but I'm out of my depth here.... So here's another. Last night when I grounded R5, I removed the leg that had continuity with the...

I will give that a shot tonight, thanks! That R5 leg is still grounded, FYI. Should be fine right? I had somebody else suggest testing the FV1 default modes by removing the EEPROM completely from its socket. The grounded R5 should achieve the same thing though if I'm understanding it right.

Nevermind. Further digging around and it's just a different amount of memory. They should be compatible. If I want to try to bridge those two rotary pins to their appropriate next components, I think I have it narrowed down a bit. Based on an old post I found by Robert, I think those pins are...

So here's a thought..... The website shows a picture of a 24LC32a EEPROM, which is what the schematic and BOM call for. Mine very clearly has 24LC64 printed on it. Any chance those two are not a direct replacement for one another? I wonder if they sent me the wrong chip.

No I don't. This was my first PCB build actually. I normally just do Vero

Never did SMD, no. I'll take a look in the morning and see how it looks in person here.

Pin 14 of what? The FV1? If so, I don't have audio there. The pin 14 we had been talking about is from IC1. At this point is it worth me contacting them for a replacement EEPROM?

Progress. Grounding R5 gives me audio at Pin 28 as well as R19 and R21 since they're in series. Still nothing at R20 though

No but I figured if it's not passing audio on the probe it won't on a guitar and amp. I can try it though.

So I reflowed everything. Still not passing audio on pin 28. I do have 3.3v on pin 13 now and audio on pin 14 of IC1. None of those 3 resistors have changed though.

I can't tell if I did or not. I've never done a PCB build prior to this so I'm not sure what it would look like.....but those two were a real pain in the ass to solder because the blob kept wanting to come off with the iron. If I did lift them, what if anything can be done?

Yeah I wondered about that when I originally did the voltages. So if I wanted to connect r5 to ground I should just be able to keep it seated and touch a grounded wire to it, right? Or do I need to actually desolder a leg completely?

Continuity in both places

So I soldered on (the correct orientation) a new switch and breakout board. Absolutely no difference......

No deal on the resistors. I reflowed all 3 and get the same lack of audio. Going to try the board...

FYI

Based on the earlier discussion I thought it was fine as long as it was wired as the guy I spoke to about it directed me to. I'll get the voltages here and I'm just going to swap in a new board and switch instead of screwing with desoldering it

My understanding is I should be getting audio on all of those yeah. None on pin 28 would shut down signal on most, if not all of the other ones that are silent there. For voltages are you looking for all pins or just certain ones?

For reference: From audio probing U1: 1 yes 2 no 5 yes 7 yes 8 yes 10 no 13 no 14 no FV1: 1 yes 2 yes 28 no R4 yes R19 no R20 one side only R21 no checking voltages now