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Try a few lighter coats instead of heavy. I use krypton crystal clear acrylic. It’s hard to say what’s causing it. It my be the brand of paper. I’ve had certain brands that wouldn’t stick at all. When it’s happened to me it’s either been shitty paper or I clear coated to thick.

Mine came yesterday. Ordered on the 28th. I never received any shipping info either so it’ll show up.

He does know how to get metal very well

I’m with you I’m still dicking around with that monarch when I have time. I can’t move on until the problem is resolved. Life’s been busy throwing curves at me lately so I haven’t had the time to really focus on it but I totally can relate to what you’re saying.

Template should work fine. Your measurements are pretty dead on with mine. I’ve been putting almost all of my pedal pcb builds in 1590b’s. The only ones I couldn’t fit were the 6-band eq and the kliche mini. Some require machining out the sides of the enclosure a bit. On a second look, I...

I have one in progress right now that doesn’t seem quite right as well. I’m not near a schematic at the moment but just from your voltages IC1 pins 3 and 5 don’t seem right. I remember the voltages on my first IC being more in line with the other 3.

I can most of the time get that if with my isopropyl alcohol. Sometimes a little WD40 messaged in softens and emulsify’s it. I wouldn’t try acetone though. I’ve had that shit r move powder coat.

I haven’t seen the schematic but just from looking at your pic, it doesn’t look like you have anything connected to on of the legs on the tranny at the bottom of the pic. It looks like your jumper missed it by one hole

Sure can. Vol 1 to ground I have no continuity. Vol 1 to C17 leg I do have continuity.

Chuck D. Bones, music6000. Got the Monarch working as it should on the breadboard. Something is definitely going on early in the circuit. I’m not get near as much output off of Q1 as I am on the breadboard. The real wacky part is when I probe leg 3 of the volume pot while rotating it, it’s...

I use a brush with iso. You should be mindful around the pots or trim pots though. You don’t want to have that sludge was onto the wafers inside.

Almost looks like rosin from the solder. See if it cleans up with some isopropyl alcohol and a brush

This is not my area of expertise as I’m at maybe intermediate level. These pots have the same resistance but different tapers. The “B” taper is linear. If you were to look at a graph, the line would be a 45 degree straight line. “C” taper is reverse log. Same as “A” taper except reversed. It...

I do as well. I know the pinout of the fets I have, I just wasn’t quite sure what the PIN numbers were on the schematic. I was finding what I thought were conflicting answers while searching but I think you guys have got me dialed in now.

Ok. Thanks guys. I thing I comprehend now

For starters I think you’ve got your input and output jacks wired wrong. Also check your power Jack. It should be center negative which means that your negative/ground wire should be connected to the center pin terminal

Ok I think I’ve got it now. Is this the standard orientation when looking at a schematic with jfets? Gate is always the arrow and at the top of the symbol will be will be the drain regardless of the physical pin arrangement

So I have the drain and gate swapped?

Could someone tell me if I have the schematic labeled properly for a J201. I believe I do but I would like to be certain before I fill a breadboard the wrong way. Thank you in advance.

Ok I’ve got it on the breadboard up to Q2. Waiting on my parts so I can continue, but I can tell you right that the problem is already apparent at Q1 on the pcb. Q1 drain on the breadboard has a ton more gain than what I’m getting at Q1 drain on the pcb