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I play baritone guitar (tuned A to A), and I'm working on a band for that material. I also play both guitar and bass, and have amps for both.

http://byteheaven.com/products_singlecross.html That's what I'm interested in, so I'll add it to the request thread. DONE - get in there and upvote it, peoples. There's also this: https://kma-machines.com/m_tylerdlx.html Which is perhaps a more versatile option, but a lot bigger and more complex.

I know that such things exist; I found some expensive examples but nothing affordable when I was investigating that idea... is there a cheap alternative? Ideally a DIY PCB. To be clear, I'm talking about a pedal that splits the signal and sends low frequencies to one amp and high to another...

Anything much below 100pF won't read properly in tests. To measure anything below 100pF, I get a 100pF cap and measure it (so I know what the actual capacitance is) and then measure the smaller one in parallel with the 100pf. So if I have a cap that reads 90pF and the two of them add up to...

That's a minimum voltage rating on the PCB. You can exceed it as much as you wish, as long as the cap will physically fit. Higher rated caps are physically bigger, as @Nic says above.

I swapped the TL022 and 4558 with the ones from my other chorus, and no change to either pedal.

That's what I thought, thanks for confirming.

I have a couple of these now, and I will make use of them one day... but I haven't seen any info about wiring them. As in: which wire goes where. Does it matter with these? Cause it seems to me either way will do what the switch is meant to do; create a momentary connection.

Doesn't hurt, and yours looks nice :cool:

I'll do that. I've already swapped the 3102/3207 chips into another chorus pedal where they work normally. Retry that, I guess, and I'm sure I have other TL022s and 4558s in working pedals... just need to do some other things first...

C5 is 100pf. C11 is 47pf. Pictures show the suspect resistors, C11, C5.

I have replaced C18 and C19, and... didn't fix the problem. The board still works, but I can't pinpoint exactly where the top end cuts out. It seems to be somewhere among the row of resistors from R35 to R40. But I can't tell any more because I'm tired and annoyed again. I could replace all...

It retains high end up to IC3, so we can forget about everything before that. I'm taking a brief probe break now. EDIT: I think I've narrowed it down to C18 or 19, so I've pulled them both. But I'm starting to get tired and irritable so I'll come back to it later. I'm hoping I'm not destroying...

Yes, none of the pots has any effect on the high cut.

I started doing that but audio probing isn't as easy as it looks. Plus I don't really know much about locating the audio path. I might try again tomorrow.

I've been busy with other activities, but I should have some free time tomorrow to start investigating the capacitors.

100% of forum users have done that. Multiple times. It's right up there with getting the input and output jacks confused.

In the OP. And yes, tried again since then. I'll probably do that, might just replace them all while I'm at it.

It's late here now, so not tonight. It's obvious when I compare it to my other choruses, it's pretty similar to zeroing the tone control on my guitar. And yes, it's the same with all the instruments I've tried it on, including bass. Like zeroing the tone control. Crude high cut.

I have a collection of green caps in pF values, from 220 to 680 or thereabouts. They're tested, they work, I've used them in quite a few pedals without any problems. As I said in the OP, I test all capacitors and resistors before using them to make sure they're in spec. I could take another pic...