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The Noble/Nobelium uses a Fender-style tonestack with a fixed mids response. It's a shelving filter with no fixed frequencies, and the controls are very interactive. That being said, you could try increasing the value of the 270pF cap in the tonsetack to something like 470pF or 500pF, that...

If you have the files you want in .spn but you want to listen to them, why not flash them to an EEPROM and listen to them with an actual FV-1? If your goal is to listen to the patches it seems like that would be the easiest way to do it rather than try to convert them back into SpinCAD format.

I'll mostly address this paragraph here. My test setup is a looper and my recording interface into a pair of studio monitors. This gives me a consistent platform so I know exactly what the output should look like each time. If there's a new design that I haven't verified before, I will run the...

My dude, as someone who has used Eagle, DipTrace, Altium, OrCAD, KiCAD, PADS, and Cadence Allegro, my personal experience is that DipTrace has the easiest learning curve and is the least intimidating to get started with. Everyone has a preference and I don't even use DipTrace anymore myself, but...

I've seen inconsistency there. Most of my stuff is standard anyway, but every now and then I have a design I think can be economic and the electros bump it to standard, where other times they don't. Not sure what the actual rule is.

They actually used to have a basic NE555, that went away a while ago. Apparently the basic component list changes based on what they feel like carrying. I've had to change a couple of the resistors I use based on basic part changes over the years as well.

If you're thinking about getting started with Eagle, I would highly recommend scrapping that idea and learning DipTrace instead.

It was literally 4 posts down from that ;) https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/tubes-102-intro-to-power-supplies-for-tube-circuits.10652/

Yeah man, 250mA isn't even enough for a single-tube pedal, I typically recommend 500mA for a single tube and add 200 mA for every additional tube. Insufficient current will absolutely give you some noise because the tubes aren't able to heat up enough to pass signal properly.

Tassie nailed it, those switches bypass the entire circuit, not just the tonestack. If you want to do a quick and dirty bypass of the tonestack, lift the ground on the bottom leg of R21. Otherwise you'll be looking at adding a new coupling capacitor (I would use 100nF, make sure you use high...

And on that note, Bathtub Reverb is back in stock. I went to reorder it a while ago and I couldn't find the design files, so I had to pull the schematic from the build doc and basically copy the layout from what I already done, that's why it took so long to get them back in. I re-verified the...

Somehow I missed this comment, sorry about that. The Mix control is a passive blend, so with the knob turned full counter-clockwise you already have the BTDR removed from the circuit and are just getting the tube section.

I don't know what your intention is with this list, but I will always argue that there is a lot of overlap and redundancy. For example, 1N914 and 1N4148 are basically the same thing. For all practical purposes (outside of actual high voltage operation) 1N400* are all going to be functionally...

The tone control on Diplomat is a rotary switch, not a pot, and as such is pretty easy to check. After removing power (always start with that), use your multimeter set for continuity testing and check that you have continuity between the center pin and each of the outside pins when the switch is...

That's the stuff I've been using the last several years, it's good stuff.

I'll consider it. The Nobelium in the C2C shop is in a 1590BB2 enclosure with a different PCB design, so that artwork isn't going to work with the DIY board layout.

Nope. There is a Sushi Box SVT preamp coming soon, but that means there's even less chance of a C2C SVT preamp coming.

There wad definitely a version of the 6505 that I found that used shared 6 triodes across two channels, I want to say it was common first stage, the single stage for clean channel leaving the other two tubes for the dirt channel, so total of 2 triodes on clean channel and 5 triodes on dirty...

That's actually what I was looking at. I found a schematic for the 6505+ that has 8 triodes in the preamp, that seems like a bit much. I can probably make 3 tubes work if I'm patient enough, but Supersonic showed me that 4 tubes is too many.

That's just for the ground lift circuit. 1/8W should be fine, but honestly the value isn't super critical either, so any of those resistors would be fine.