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I love your benches! Good stuff all around. Here's my workbench with a bonus cat pic. Been growing a collection of germanium transistors in the corner there....

The only C25k pots I have found are the ones with solder lugs which I got from Mammoth. https://www.mammothelectronics.com/products/mammoth-16mm-single-gang-solder-lug-potentiometers-reverse-log-c?variant=40399880519

Another fun option is infrared LEDs which have a forward voltage of around 1.2V, so even lower than red ones. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/infrared-led-940nm-5mm-tsal7400.html

This is fantastic!!! Seriously thank you so much for the thorough explanation. I so appreciate it!

Thanks for response! Curious how you got to the 26v calculation. Any insight on how the charge pump dishes out so much voltage? I think I'm only familiar with charge pumps as voltage doublers so I thought it was at 18v operation.

Also, Digikey has those caps actually in stock. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/rubycon/35ZLQ120MEFC6.3X11/1189-3657-ND/6049828

So I must have been using an older build doc that didn't specify voltages on the capacitors. For the 120uF caps, what voltage is actually running through them assuming a 9v power supply? How much danger am I in by using 25v caps there?

So glad I found this on the forum! The Unison Doubletracker sounds so incredibly good with this mod! Any chance of simply adding this as a revision to the boards themselves? I could see it coming in handy for a number of these FV-1 builds and it seems like it wouldn't hurt anything by including it.

So I'd think you could use anything between 20k to 50k for the trimmer. As for connecting it to the board, the 3 legs of the trimmer fit into the inner holes. You could use some trimmed leads or probably pin headers as well to go between the trim board and the two holes for the resistor. It...

I've honestly given up on most through-hole JFETs and have stocked up on SMD J201s, 5457s, and 4393s. It took a bit of getting used to soldering them but I've been so much happier with the results.

So I don't have a very good way to record videos but hopefully this gives you a good sense of how many sounds are in this thing! Here are two videos where I keep all the knobs the same but just change the I and II toggles. Everything from light grit to almost gated fuzz sounds!

This is from the Road Rage charge pump board from Madbean. The only difference should be the maximum current they can provide.

Most certainly! Got to keep things safe.

Awesome! It's honestly so good! Just be sure to check the docs as there are some unusual components.

Thanks so much! Yeah the finish is a technique I've been working in for a while now. Used the light gray smallbear 125b and used a water-based gray paint, let it partially dry, then rinse it off for that interesting texture and swirl. The lettering is done with a posca paint pen, which is a fun...

This is the Pandora's Box built with a diode toggle mod (silicon, no clipping, and red LEDs) for different levels of compression and flavor. I honestly didn't know what to expect from this one but the unusual circuit design really intrigued me. All I can say is WOW! Wonderful tonal response and...

I believe the 3 big ones should be LM13700 OTAs. I'm guessing TL072 or dual op-amps for the other 2.

Built this one and had no idea.... So I left it unlabeled and mysterious! Sorry I'm not much help.

Snipped leads work pretty great. If you do want to go the route of using pin headers, these work nice. I think I prefer them and don't mind considering how cheap they are on Tayda. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/pin-headers/40-pin-2-54-mm-angle-single-row-pin-header.html

Second on the sockets and Small Bear for the transistors! Oh, I think I've just got a bad solder joint or component in there somewhere. Sounds like it's cutting almost all of the higher frequencies off. Just need to take the time to probe it and find out what's going on.