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nah. i get most of my stuff from tayda. im sure there's nothing wrong at all with this. i didn't need a pound either. not sure about sourcing smaller quantities, but i can certainly vouch for the chipquik 'no clean'/water soluble option that ive linked earlier.

my understanding is that the closest to a G taper is W. if not W, then B can suffice (at least at the centre point, they will be the same) does depend on what the control is doing. when i was breadboarding a Boss MT-2, all of the EQ controls (except mid freq) require G (or W) taper. i subbed...

it's not really a case of 'better', it's just another option and i like it. i've never used kester. also there's like a hundred different types in the kester range, so when asking this question, you need to be comparing apples vs. apples. e.g. - tin/lead ratio - various ratios of lead-free...

ever since i got onto this particular solder recommended by @Nostradoomus it has made everything so much easier to clean. https://mou.sr/4shmU7g the flux is fully water soluble / washable. im not kidding, with this stuff you could just hose that build under a hot/warm tap, dry it off with a...

for which build?

i breadboarded both the sour grape fuzz and cleric fuzz just recently on the weekend, and compared them to my OG/V5 opamp muff build. the sour grape fuzz was weird. it has a lot of mids in a way that makes it sound more like an odd distortion than a muff fuzz. although people into the ‘tone...

farrk i wish my freehand was that tidy. looks great 👌

(input jack; output jack) "IN" refers to PCB input, "OUT" refers to PCB output.

uhhhhhhh

yep, same method with that style (tayda equivalents) https://www.taydaelectronics.com/flat-cylindrical-5mm-led-lampshade-protector-clear-plastic-clip.html i've found these are just a little bit smaller in diameter than the flatter/flush lens (seen in this build thread), so just have to be extra...

i tend to drill it a little bit smaller than what will fit (with a step bit), and then gently ream it with a round file until it barely fits, and then the lens just gets pushed/forced in and stays in.

✅ not gonna lie, this one goes pretty hard for the coin.

🥵 that's a good point though. cos when playing normally, standing up, a bit further away from the amp, i can dial up the feedback a bit more. but while in the middle of doing a demo for this, it took a while for me to notice how much the feedback was ringing through and im like oh fuck no shit...

i. Aleph Null Troglodyte Self Oscillating Reverb. - coolest belton / PT2399 reverb i’ve tried yet. - does it all. ii. EQD Tone Reaper / Scythe - haven’t built it yet, but my breadboard build blew my balls off in a magnificent way. - low parts count, only x1 NPN Ge required (leaky is best) -...

if you build this with 680pf caps, it's going to be darker. these small value caps (usually 470pf, sometimes 560pf) attenuate harsh high end frequencies. the larger the value, the more of the high end spectrum is going to be attenuated. e.g. a muff with 560pf caps is going to be darker than a...

ay thanks for checking it out 🤙🏻 yeah it’s definitely worth buying a brick if you don’t find one. if i’m honest, i don’t actually follow NFL 😅, but i was given this hat a while ago and found it again the other day are there any other creatively described suggested settings we’re missing out...

cheers 🤙🏻 yeah true there’s a lot going on with this thing. good fun. it’s just as well the momentary switch is there for ‘damp’ mode cos that feedback really wants to run away.

as soon as i heard @Aleph Null ’s demo for this reverb circuit, i knew i had to build it. described as a "versatile reverb capable of everything from short, bright, roomy reverbs, to dark, cavernous, infinite sustain, to full-on self oscillation." - yep, can confirm. IMO this is the ultimate DIY...

it’s true. it was you 🫡