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I managed to fit 3x 3pdt on-on switches and arranged the original transistors with the new set. And it works! There is no pop sound when switching Q1, so I am guessing the circuit/board already handle that. I felt I got many more options out if it now. The Attack knob gets a bigger range in some...

Actually, with three 3pdt with on-on there are 8 combinations. Just to be clear.. (I once taught math, so I should've known better...)

Thanks! Yes, I can get all the stuff, and socket on the 3pdt so I avoid soldering the transistors. Then I can fliptest and determine if one setup is optimal or if flips are useful. After that, drill and solder accordingly. I really appreciate the help.

A 3PDT flip (not stomp) with on-on 2 way per each "opposing" transistor pair is what you proposed, right? (I thought stomp) wite centerpieces to the socket and one transistors on each row. Will it pop a lot when switching?

Yes, either 3 pairs and one 3PDT or 3x "single" switches that would allow for more (ridiculous and excessive) control, individually. 3PDTs might be challenging to fit but good point. If instead I would try to join 2 out of 3 legs and use a 1 switch for the last leg, is that even possible? (Or...

I decided to try out the advice from @danfrank : I managed to get hold of: Q1: ACY30 hfe 82 leak 210uA Q2: SFT229 116 and 40uA Q3: 2N321 82 and 110uA And it just became a different pedal. Hiss don't bother me at this point so I did not check that out. The attack knob went from 3/4 useful to...

I have studied as much as I can to figure out how to measure Ge transistors. Most helpful I found R.G. Keens explanation of Fuzz Faces and how to measure as well as DIY Guitar Pedals Youtube clip (). Just for fun I put one Ge transistor in the freezer for a little bit and its values changed...

@danfrank I finally got around to get an A50k for attack, and it is a big difference. That Attack knob is useful now. Plan is to figure out the Q1 2 3 I have in and what is best since the gating is still a bit much for me.

Ok, I tried with a 220pF cap touching base leg and collector leg. No change what I could tell. Tried on all 3 transistors and noticeable change. Maybe my idea of "hiss" is more of inherent noisefloor. The noise when unplayed is same level as an MT-2 and less that Bogner Red Mini... Will measure...

Ok, I found a few Ge transistors that I could try, but the increased noise and were more spluttery without adding to the range of the Attack knob. Later this week I plan to swap for an audio, log potentiometer for it and that will probably be it. I owned a Fuzz Face Mini III for a short while...

Is the C2, C5, C9 in this schema (American Fuzz Pro ) what you meant by inserting 100pF or 82pF (ish) between base(s) and collector(s), @Big Monk ? I am not done with my second attempt just yet, but remember when the first attempt actually worked that 220pF kind of dulled the tone a noticeably...

Derailing is fine by me. A lot of good tips tricks and discussion surfacing. Only minor worry is if MKI title will hinder MKII searches from finding this. Feel free to clone if anyone feels the need for it. For me, the cap analysis with first lowering the noise and the compensating the treble...

Thanks! (I am guessing "mouse" is autocorrect of "noise"...)

I understand that the values differ between MKI and MKII, but would the principle be worth applying to MKI or is it so inherent already with MKI build that trying to silence it is a somewhat wasted effort? I mean I have some good tips on how to bring the noise down, bit perhaps I should not...

Thanks. Well, after sleeping on it I think I will go through the transistors I have and see if I can optimize somehow. If it still bothers me, cutting and swapping the pot using wires should be possible without desoldering it. But it is good to know what expectations that are realistic to have.

Thanks I appreciate the tip, I will consider it. I was building a Fuzzrite and the predrilled casing made me rotate the pots 180. So when I tried to correct by desoldering (instead of cutting and cross-wiring) it all went south. So that is why I am not super keen on swapping out the B pot for an...

Thanks a bunch. I will check my 2 AC125 one U one F (???) And figure out how to measure leaky. hFe I managed on my breadboard although it seems to ve more of relative values. The OC75N that came with I can check too although I think it is the right for Q1. I have some ACs leftovers from a...

No need to be sorry, I appreciate your reply nonetheless. Thanks.

Many thanks, will try not to worry about the Attack so much then, although you'd think it would serve a purpose. Pre-breadboarding is a great tip, thanks! I am working on a Fuzzrite diy from guitarpcb, and they added slots for 220pF caps (or less) on the board already. Now in hindsight it would...

Hi, I just managed to finish MKI and there is a lot of fuzz in it. I modded it by setting a trimpot (20k) for R7. Lowering it gives a sort of dying battery sputter, and 75%+ makes it less fuzzy almost like a boost. First question/issue is that it has a high noise floor (?), but I was sort of...