I did that (well, I connected to the positive side of the dc jack instead of the PCB pad) but once soldered, it only showed 1.2c at C100. Prior to soldering it to C100, the loose end read 9v.
I get the 1.2v at C100 when the diode is not in the equation and I get 1.2 at the diode when I put the bridge in. So, where should I look for the short?
Well, dang. I mistakenly connected to C20 the first time (#231 above), and was sooooo happy. But when I soldered, I soldered it correctly to C100 but get………only 1.2v there. And of course no audio on Q1 drain. Does this mean C100 could be bad too?
So, I connected a wire from the power jack to C100 and get 9.23v! I’m assuming the protective diode is at least part of the problem. To test the rest, I’m going to need to solder that bypass wire because I can’t get an alligator clip on it and if I could it would likely slip off as I mess with...
well, not sure what you mean. I have 9v coming from the power supply to the jack. I soldered the wire to the jack. I get 9v to one side of the diode, 0 on the other side (just as I had when I just had the wire hooked on the jack). I’ll try the bypass to the C100……Tks!
I took the bypass bridge I made off of the D100 protective diode and I'm back to 9v on one side and 0 on the other. Does that not tell me my diode is busted and should be replaced?
Power supply plug tests at 9. I tested the jack it plugs into, at the lugs. with no wires attached, I get 9v. So, there doesn't seem to be a short in the jack. But when I attach the wires to the jack and test it at the same lugs, it drops to 1.2.
Now completely befuddled. Soldered the jack. Still only get 1.2v! Tested i both at the jack and the PCB. The jack is ok because I tested it without the wires connected, prior to soldering. 9v. Then soldered the wires and tested it at the very place where I soldered on the wires and it’s...