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The ODR-1 is not true bypass and so has a number of transistors doing the switching. Pedal PCB's is true bypass, when the pedal is on it should sound exactly like the original.

Interesting, this data sheet has a forward voltage of 0.95v max (no minimum) https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/155557/ETC/AA112/1

I've just been looking at the schematic for the ODR-S, this is the Bass Mid and Treble eq version, the bit that caught my eye was that the hard clipping diodes are AA112s rather than the 1N4148s I've seen in the other schematics. These AA112s are germanium, rather expensive and seem to have a...

Thanks Chuck, and for keeping it simple, this boost can so easily be put on a switch and wired into the PCB I think give it a go. When I saw the 2.2u cap in the boost section I thought it was going to make an already bass 'rich' pedal have even more bass! I appreciate that this because I don't...

I'm just looking at the ODR1 Plus schematic, in particular the boost bit, but not understanding how the boost works, can anyone enlighten me?

The Southern Belle is a variant of the the Mach 1 and as such they are very similar, and if my understanding is correct, compared to the Mach 1 the Southern Belle has a gain boost in the feedback loop of the first half opamp, hard clipping diodes and more gain in the feedback loop of the second...

Great, thanks. The only time I used one was in the tone stack of my valve amp and that was because of the voltage rating. 
But to be faithful, I'll get some in stock ;)

I’m assuming the silver mica cap is the 100pf in the feedback, but why use a silver mica cap?

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/superstevie/

That’s good news, being in Europe I have to choose between a kit, or buying from you directly, but that is likely to incur the ‘administration’ fee the post office puts on top of the VAT they collect, and the postage is the same price as the PCB, so I like to breadboard the design first to see...

I'm guessing we wont be seeing the schematics for the King’s Hand and Lone King overdrives?

I built an earlier 5 knob version, but have just noticed a newer version that makes use of both halves of the OTA: http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/engineersthumb4.html

Where is the Break Action from?

This makes an interesting read: https://nordland-electronics.de/en/blog/odr-1.html

If the germanium diodes are 'Klon' like then they would be to ground, but it is curious that they are asymmetric! Is 'tone pony' a comon nickname for a Klon? or are they alluding to something else? If the 'TS' style is soft clipping then I really do't know it would be implemented. I've not...

I'm guessing putting in some hard clipping diodes would not be that hard to do, but it sounds like the silicon diode is soft clipping from the description 'symmetrical silicon setting (think tube squeezer flavor)' could that be done with some sort of big muff clipping diode arrangement? But now...

I know just enough to know that I I don't know much! And full respect to Chuck D. Bones, for seeing a better way of doing it.

Hi, it looks like this PCB layout was done in May, but it's not materialsed is that due to the current situation or was there a problem with the design? And it would be great to hear feedback from anyone who's compared the two. I'm deciding whether to jump in or wait!

I hope you don't mind if I tack a question on to yours. I have previously bought some SMD MMBF4393 which now appear to be a discontinued line, replaced by MMBF4393LT1G, I have no idea what the ‘LT1G’ suffix means, but hoping these are basically the new version of the MMBF4393 and the difference...

Thanks phi1, my electrical knowledge is enough for me to notice differences, but not to work out how they will effect the sound.