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Yeah I’ve used the search function. I built one a while back that had issues and it ended up being a defective pcb. Broken traces that couldn’t be seen. All fixed and sounds great now. I meant it would be good for other people who will eventually build them seeing as there are so many questions...

The low tide doc might be a good candidate for the schematic considering how many questions get posted about them (including my own 😂)

Tube screamer > Tube screamer with an added loop to added as many more Tube Screamers as you’d like.

Yeah seeing as it was just taken apart it does sound like it could be a lug touching something or possibly from being too tight. If it’s not that, it’s the pot itself. Curious to know what it is now. lol.

The pot is most likely dead. That’s exactly what happens when the track is worn inside. You might be able to get away with spraying Deoxit but it would be better to just get a new pot. The resistance will go up as the track wears down.

Post another thread with some pictures of the inside and let us know what the pedal is doing and isn’t doing.

Glad to see you got it working!

🤣

Gettin’ a footprint gas pedal installed….

The list I’m providing has direct links to all the components. What you provided is still necessary though for choosing the resistor and pot values.

No worries. We all gotta start somewhere. 🙂 There’s a DC voltage function on the meter. You just touch the black probe to the ground lug of the input or output jack and the red probe to the each side of the diode. Both sides should read right around 9v. If it’s not the diode I’d just go over...

Before you unsolder everything, did you check the voltage after the protection diode with the pedal plugged in by itself?

What you’re doing won’t work. All the breakout board is doing is routing the power into the pedal, but if you put the wrong order in you’ll get the wrong order out. The pcb isn’t getting -9v and ground the way it needs. The grounds are now “positive ground”, so yes, the input and output jacks...

Swap each of these sets of wires only on the 3PDT board.

Yeah that wiring won’t work because the 3PDT was labeled for negative ground. Let me see if I can adjust it for you.

Also if you have the power jack wired for “center negative” (-9v to center and positive ground to outer) you want to keep the battery wires as normal on the adapter or else you’ll be feeding positive voltage into the center of the jack. (Most likely what happened the first time)

The way you have it wired now sounds correct. Red wire to ground and black to -9v. Just make sure if you wire it to a power jack that the black -9v is wired to the center pin of the jack so its center negative. Also, you don’t need a charge pump unless you plan on daisy chaining it with other...

Sounds like Q1 is bad or there’s a trace that’s not connected. Before replacing Q1 I’d test the traces in that area for continuity. Happened to me on two different builds. Everything was perfect but just ended up with a defective pcb. Easy fix though. Not common but it happens.

If it’s not a solder joint try replacing the protection diode. When you test it again plug in only this pedal without daisy chaining. If you have a multi meter put it on the DC voltage function and measure the voltage after that diode. Soldering: just make sure you’re giving heat to both the...

For positive ground circuits the LED will be reversed. Long leg to “positive ground” (red) and short leg to “negative 9v” (black) With “positive ground” circuits you’re just reversing the positive and negative going into the pedal. I can’t tell from the pics if this pcb is specifically laid...