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Check continuity from pins 1+2 of the pot to one leg of the 2.2u cap, then the other leg to ground. Also verify value of cap and that it’s in the correct orientation.

And of course I’d assume that pins 1 and 2 are tracking the same way with respect to pin 3 since 1 and 2 are tied. If so then we know the pot is likely just fine… so it’s tracing other components in the path of the pot. While doing that, double check the capacitor value. Wrong value could...

Does the resistance between 1 and 3 of the pot change as you turn it?

Ouch! Feel the love!!!

Likely another issue. An on/off/on and even an on/on/on will act just like an on/on switch at either extreme. The only difference would be the middle position- since this pedal doesn’t use the middle position, it should act correctly at the other 2, just not in the middle.

I’ve had a few. And a few 9vac adapters as well. More common before folks went with standard 1/8” phone plug vs the cheapo “boss” style connector, but there have been a few center positives that I’ve run into over the years…. So I’d just say: “never assume”

To fully take advantage of the buffer preventing the volume pot loading the pickups, it would need to be before the volume knob in the guitar. But I do agree with the sentiment- a decently designed buffer would be transparent tonally, would fix the volume pot loading, would help signal to...

I grabbed a bag on Amazon

Wouldn’t be surprised if that isn’t the same module they use with the SLO pedal board and the SLO mini head as well.

You should be able to measure a voltage drop across the LED, unless shorted. Remove the LED and see if you get voltage on the led pads

I know I e been all over the map, and still strongly recommend a tube-like transistor amp, but IMHO the closest I ever had to a cranked plexi Marshall at bedroom volume was an Origin 20 in 1w mode. Shy of that would be a JCM800 like circuit (or the modded valve jr posted above looks enticing)

Is it possible you have the LED polarity flipped?

If BAD did the same thing with Freeman as they did with Soldano, the mini head is likely to be the same as the namesake pedal

120p, 330p and 680p: 120p-330p-450p-680p-800p, 1.01n, 1.13n. Definitely don’t see a need for more than 3-4 caps

I honestly think in their price point, the Blackstar amps are a lot of amp, and can cover pretty much anything most cover bands could want. May not be the “pure” hard driven output crunch etc, but they sound pretty good at all volumes. If I was gigging again, I’d likely be looking at them myself.

Maybe add a 680 or 820p, and put the parallel resistor/trim pot on a jumper?

For me, I found the 82-250pf range ideal (definitely on the low end), and bigger resistor (220k I believe), so really only 1 value smaller cap and 1 value larger resistor. May be interesting to try the 2nf cap, but I am thinking it would be too much and be less natural and transparent...

Works both ways: I still see people on Internet forums and Facebook spouting off a lot of “marketing BS” that started with a Guitar Player magazine article in the early 1990s where they compared like 25 amps, and of course the “this amp sounds better than the others, likely because it used...

And I always said kinda tongue in cheek that series is the only right way. It’s the right way that worked best for me. I encourage trying both to see what you like. The only thing I’d encourage trying on the one with 4 caps/ 3 resistors is try smaller caps vs larger and larger resistors vs...

And don’t be afraid to try other values, trending toward subtle- I believe in the one guitar I actually used one on, and kept in place, I was using a 120p (may have been smaller), and I think a 220k resistor in series. With the pickups I had, the pot taper wasn’t affected, and it didn’t lose...