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Yep, bypass works fine

D2 works flawlessly, I do need to buy a audio probe...

After probing around more, I have 4.5v up until the A100k pot. somewhere between the 56k resistor and the pot I lose all voltage

I had the LED wired to the wrong pin at the start, so it looked reversed to me. I get bypass, but absolutely no signal when engaged (box closed up or not)

074: 4.5 [ ] 4.5 4.5 [ ] 4.5 4.5 [ ] 4.5 9.0 [ ] 0.0 4.5 [ ] 4.5 4.5 [ ] 4.5 4.5 [ ] 4.5 072: 4.5 [ ] 9.0 4.5 [ ] 4.5 4.0 [ ] 4.5 0.0 [ ] 4.5

I haven't built a test box yet, it's part of the next lot I do but don't have the money for more components atm

I got no idea how to do that. It has continuity and that's as far as I went

No dice, also tried shorting the board ground to the middle switch lug with nothing there either. Resistor on anode has worked fine for me so far, it's how the board is wired by default anyway. The 9v rail doesn't seem to actually attatch to anything if you don't give it supply, so I was...

Saw a reply that doesn't appear here for some reason: The resistor on the 3PDT board goes to the anode of a 3PDT LED then to ground after the LED. Didn't want to connect it to the right CLR pad because IDK what voltage that thing is getting and didn't want to dirty the +9v rail

Actually already did that last night, didn't change anything sadly

D Done, the entire circuit from jack in to jack out has continuity (except through C1, which it shouldn't have). Still no sound :/

White wire to LDR is a mod to the LED (lets the player know what rate/intensity the pedal is currently at by mimicking the LFO LED). It shouldn't interrupt anything being in parallel from my basic knowledge of circuits. LED (both footswitch and the one that oscillates) light up fine and are...

Correction, I am stupid and did not read the wiring diagram for that board. Now that the LED turns on when, you know, it's on: it's just a regular no audio issue :)

Tried jumping directly between the tips when bypassed with 0 change. I am no expert, but I assumed that it would "connect" it as if it were bypassed that way... No luck with reflowing the board either.

Honestly, not even sure how I got here. Building abyss, when I turn on the switch (LED on) I get a clean signal. When I turn it off, I get nothing. Can I get a sanity check with my wiring? I am using this 3pdt board [Link]. I already tried removing the modded LED, no luck. Yellow is jack...

After looking at the diagram more, it looks like the LDR receive VREF. Which is 9v or less, idk. The LDR go from 10k to 20k, so I tied the anode to the back end of the LDR to check function. Sure, it's dim because I am undervolting the LED by a lot, but still plenty visible since I am using a...

Was about to ask this same question! I am thinking (theoretically) that you could tie the anode of the LED to one of the LDRs (or even the internal LED anode pad) to get it to blink at the same rate. My intro to circuits class that I took 5 years ago is dull in the brain, but making a new...

Looks like you were (probably) right. Re-flowed all the grounds and any sus joints and it is (mostly) fixed. Still hums for 1-2 seconds when turned on, probably while caps recharge, but its a manageable buzz and clears right up.

Will try that. I mean, anything would beat country. Playing around with the trimpot, if I turn it up, the warble gets worse until the pedal turns off for a few seconds before starting back up after a second or two. This cycle repeats. Cap issue? Not giving it enough current (it's getting...

Working on my byrdhouse again: when the vol is turned up (on amp) I get a intense buzzing, when ATK is up I get warbling, and overall a country radio station keeps seeping through my sound. I have checked every grounding point and they all look good, but when I body-ground a few points it...