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Looks okay to me and behaves pretty much like a normal tone stack: http://www.guitarscience.net/tsc/fender.htm#RIN=1k&R1=22k&RT=50k&RB=50k&RM=2.5k&RL=1M&C1=2.7n&C2=1m&C3=470n&RB_pot=LogB&RM_pot=LogB&RT_pot=LogB

Correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that a short circuit basically has infinite capacitance. You could plug something like 10mF into the TSC for the bass capacitor to simulate that.

I think he means how does the bezel stay put in the drill hole. These will kind of wedge themselves in the hole if your drilling is precise. If it's not, a bit of hot glue does the trick.

Marked the ground tracks in green. Looks faithful to the schematic to me. Q1 E goes to ground through the two 47uF caps. Q2 C goes to ground through the 22K resistor and 20K trimpot. Both emitters are tied together.

I'd just try to bend the leads of the film cap to fit. Maybe fit it from the other side of the board if it's too wide. It may not look nice but it'll be an upgrade from the MLCC as well as the electrolytic.

That was beautiful. Great feedback control too!

Or save the money and learn a new guitar skill :D

That is pretty cool! Probably like most people, I only associate the HM-2 with the dimed controls Swedish chainsaw tone. In the demos on the site, I actually like it best with more neutral EQ settings. Really puts the unique character of the distortion in the foreground.

Yes, there are probably a lot of caveats. Not least of which: "Is it really necessary for building guitar pedals?" And probably no, you can throw in a 100nF film cap to decouple the power pins and it'll be fine because film caps also have quite low ESR compared to electrolytics. Maybe omit it...

You'll see this in almost any TI chip datasheet. I like and trust those because they're some of the most comprehensive datasheets of all the manufacturers. Some examples: OPA2134 https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/opa2134.pdf "Bypass the power supply pins with 10nF ceramic capacitors or larger to...

A lot of op amp datasheets seem to specifically call for MLCCs, usually 100nF, for decoupling the power pins. As to why, I don't know, but if the manufacturer recommends it I'll stick to it. Sorry for the non-answer-answer 😅

One of the best ways to actually see how changing different component values affects frequency response is simulating the circuits in LTSpice. Unfortunately, this will be a little bit of a time sink. Very rewarding though!

AliExpress does IOSS. The price you pay already includes VAT/customs fees, all of which is electronically transmitted so there's no hold-up in the destination country where they have to figure out what you owe. With Tayda if you choose FedEx it's very similar. Tayda tells FedEx what you owe...

If it's still in Frankfurt it most likely hasn't passed customs yet. It happens, especially around Christmas and other holidays.

Looks great! I built a dual channel Lead version based on the Aion FX boards, but that limits knob layout severely of course. This makes me want to learn creating my own PCBs 😵

A couple of demo videos: I'm playing a Fender Player Strat with stock single-coils in the first video. The second video was recorded with an ESP LTD EC-1000S with a Seymour Duncan SH-5 in the bridge and SH-1 in the neck. For both videos, the Rangemaster is plugged directly into a Marshall...

You can use it but turning the pot all the way counter clockwise will have less range than a pot closer to 50K. For the opposite case - all the way clockwise - it doesn't matter. 100K will technically work but may not sound right.

It can be nasty for sure, but it depends on the setup. I think it works best with loose and bassy amps, preferrably without bright cap or with the gain on the amp up high and the volume on the pedal low. That way the lower value caps are more usable and make for some nice and creamy classic rock...

Hah, just started cutting a video on a Rangefinder inspired vero build as well. Love this thing.