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Agreed with @jwin615 there, if you use a film cap instead of a tantalum then it will not affect the pedal working or not. If our hypothetical friend wanted to post some pictures of this hypothetical build I'm sure the sharp people on this forum would be happy to take a look and see if anything...

Sendcutsend absolutely can. They quoted me $171 a piece.

I mean at that point I just open my own machine shop and do it all myself. So if that's considered "bringing american manufacturing back", sure.

I'm looking at getting some custom machined aluminum pieces for a project I'm working on. Apparently Chinese aluminum is still subject to 100% tariffs, meaning my $25 parts cost $50 a piece from China. I told myself surely there was a domestic supplier that could beat that on a simple aluminum...

My personal opinion is that a variable passive HPF will not be incredibly useful as you're still dealing with a rolloff of 6dB/octave. You'll get much better results with an active filter like the Fdeck (my personal favorite) or Broughton.

They are not completely separate circuits, if you look at the schematic in the build doc you'll see that both outputs use the first tube as the "core preamp", then the signal for the XLR output goes out through a transformer and the signal for the 1/4" output goes out through a white cathode...

I agree with Tassie here, if you don't need the 1/4" output I would recommend leaving out the second tube. Is it possible to turn Nobelium into a tube overdrive? Sure, but that isn't what Nobelium was designed for and it doesn't lend itself particularly well to overdrive. I consider Nobelium to...

That is correct. It is indeed. I intended to have the voltmeter always active so I could monitor the battery voltage constantly, but I was getting some noise in the preamp when the voltmeter was active, so I added the red momentary pushbutton there to check the voltage so I can mute the preamp...

Nothing wrong with your plan. This is my bass with an onboard Underground Accelerator (similar to the C2C Particle Accelerator) preamp. Built with a Warmoth body that I routed out to accommodate the custom PCB I designed for it. I use a large 9.6V RC car battery pack (I have three I can swap and...

Absolutely. I have it on order and it should be shipping early next week, so I should have it in stock by the middle of December at the latest. Transformers and faceplates are in stock.

The faceplate is made of FR-4 (fiberglass) with layers of copper on each side under the solder mask. It will hold up to heat just fine.

The difference there is that while I do sell 9V pedals, they are not 9V circuits, and the high voltage caps in my pedals are actually necessary.

Ah, that makes a lot more sense. I feel silly.

If you're using a 630V cap in a 9V circuit, it's never going to charge above 9V. The voltage rating pertains to the dielectric breakdown rating of the construction, it doesn't mean you're actually getting more electrons in there, just that it's possible to charge the cap to a higher voltage...

Are you looking for something to build or something to buy? If something to build, how complicated of a project are you looking for? If something to buy, what's your budget?

Manufacturers don't care, they'll fabricate it.

How many pedals are you planning to ship? I buy shipping boxes (in multiple sizes) from Uline, but obviously you have to buy them in bulk. I double box, so there's a white "pedal box" that the pedal fits snugly in while it's sitting on the shelf waiting to be shipped, and then there's a brown...

I mean I have obviously checked my circuit against the actual Noble, the only thing I'm missing is the B+ voltage, which I swear I wrote down somewhere but haven't been able to find since. The power supply will account for a lot of differences, especially when it comes to feel, but I will also...

@tdengineer thought this was a general electronics forum when he first signed up, so he's been posting every now and then about other stuff.