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DIY is a money pit, and the more you DIY of your DIY projects, the bigger money pit it becomes. I second the Black Eye, and basically agree with everything said so far in this thread.

The power plugs are the cheap Tayda copies. You should grab a few with your order. I’m not sure about the outtie and innies, but you’d likely be fine with those too. For the LEDs, solder those close to last. I adjusted the height so the LED rests against the back of the face plate and the tip...

My transformer rec would be get what's best overall for the core amp, disregard the relay requirements. The Heyboer stuff from APD is priced well, I've had good luck with them. Then for relays, and perhaps DC heaters for your preamp tubes as well, get one of these...

Ahh I understand now 👍 I have two sets of PPCB splitters and mixers, I’ve used the two mixers like you describe (albeit separate pedals rather than a dual concentric control) to mix a OX Box and OX Stomp going into to my stereo board. It does work, its just not as intuitive as separate pan and...

I’ve had a couple of glasses of wine so bear with me… but a stereo signal… for stereo pan and stereo volume you would need a total of four pots (two dual in my example). What does dual concentric bring to the table? I think OP wants stereo in and out, not mono in stereo out.

You could use dual pots and wire them off the PCB boards. For extra credit you could wire a set of dual pots for panning that feed a set of dual pots for volume.

Oracal 651 permanent vinyl. I used a Silhouette Cameo 5.

You get it. It’s a one-off passion piece tailor made for my particular heavy music fetish. I showed it to my neighbor a couple of doors down (who has a vintage guitar and amp collection to die for) and he was like “you could make good money doing this!”. I laughed and said “sure, if I operated...

Yeah the bias section lol. There’s a lot there besides supply components - like the grid leak resistors and bias measuring components. I also added little test point attach rings near the top to make easier and safer to bias. The hope is I can pick up some cheaper used or unmatched NOS power...

Lead dress for pedals is good training for amps! The hum and noise floor are great, that said it’s not a high gain amp. The preamp heater supply is a separate winding than the heater supply for the power tubes and it is biased at around 70V rather than ground. This helps keep hum out of the...

This was a long one, 8 months from start to end. A large part of that was the design process of trying to figure out how to fit everything I wanted into the chassis. My main concerns were protecting the transformers because I intend to ride it hard, and put it away wet. But also a couple of...

I still think it's a great pedal but the idea is like 75% of the way there. For example the clean doesn't have enough gain to keep up, and it is really fiddly to dial in. The V2 Silver Rose by Dwarfcraft would be cool to build and compare. He has the clean gain going up to 11x, and a Eau...

5 cent transistor + $50 in passives = ultimate tones :)

Like @mckillacuddy mentioned, solid core. I’m not a huge fan myself of normal insulated solid core. To be able to see breaks I’d rather use tinned bus wire, combined with clear teflon tubing when insulation is needed. Milspec Tefzel, tinned stranded, wire holds its shape pretty well too. Fuck...

Beautiful. Lead dress is a great example of “how it should be done”. I built all the other Effects Layouts Dunwich PCBs except for this one because I was planning on building the actual amp. I may end up building this one too because a) your demo of it sounds fucking great, and b) really it’s...

Looking great :) What Hammond did you choose for the OT? Do you have a link for the Faston connectors you are using? This last week I ordered and received a big bag of Molex kits that can handle 600V but they just feel meh to me.

Ditto. This was my immediate thought when seeing the pictures.

Some of your bus wire looks tinned and some does not? If you have some romex around you can strip out the conductors, put one end in a drill chuck and the other end in line man’s pliers and twist it. It’ll get straight and stiff. Perfect for a structural ground wire. Also is using Teflon...

Kester 331 and then Kester 245. Both 6337. Kester 331 has water soluble flux. You can literally rinse the board under the faucet at the end the session. I let mine air dry. Kester 245 once you are doing the final wiring in the enclosure (and also stuff that can’t get wet).

Apex Jr is in Torrance. You have to make an appointment but if I was going to be in LA that’d be my destination. https://www.apexjr.com/ My metro is decent size but I’m embarrassed to say I’ve never considering looking around for a shop (Minneapolis, no it didn’t burn down).