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Not really - you can on the other side of the board that's about it. Isopropyl alcohol - just enough for the back side of the board. I use the cleaner to heat it up slightly, let it sit for a minute, give it a quick scrub with an old toothbrush then rinse it back in the cleaner.

Is there anything like build docs or something we can help with to get some stuff off your plate?

@Robert - follow up again

Finished up a micro overdrive for a friend, and for an extra little bonus I laser marked his band logo onto the front. There is a weird shadow as the scaling got all fucked up while doing the marking, so I need to spend a little bit of time cleaning the enclosure up before I hand it over...

No problem - I did have separate switching PCBs for it, but I'll do some rejigging to get everything onto a single PCB so they're easier to get made. The first version I made did need an 18v supply, but I've changed over to an isolated DC-DC converter to make them way easier to power.

Just a single chip? I've got gerbers for a 6 band with footswitchable boost that loves fancy ICs. I really do agree using high slew rate ICs for clipping doesn't sound that great

G's are sort of a weird one where you get minimal control at either ends, but a lot of fine control in the middle ranges. You can just use a linear in there and it will fine.

That cap coming out of the top is the perfect spot for a tube

I recently discovered a couple of boxes of BD139/140s in my stash (that I was given years ago and didn't realize were particularly useful). I've tested around 20 of each out of a couple of hundred, and about 25% are 65-85 hfe. Guess I'm doing some silicon fuzzes 😅

My TC3 doesn't even read germanium whatsoever, so I'd probably verify another way

As long as the voltage rating is a bit above the maximum voltage you're going to see, then whatever is going to fit will be fine. You can leave that cap out - there is zero chance it is doing anything that is audible, and I doubt you're even going to be able to measure its inclusion.

If you're concerned about corrosion, pull a couple of feet off and wipe it lengthwise with paper towels. Voila - all corrosion gone!

For subminiatures, I've mostly dealt with Langrex - I did have a whole batch of 5672 pentodes (very similar to a 5678) that had heavily corroded flying leads that broke as soon as the tubes were handled, and they replaced them all no questions asked.

Every single FET circuit I've ever played with has sounded a million times better at 18-24v.

Do you have a pedal with buffered bypass? Put it in the front of the chain with everything off and see if it makes a difference.

You can use any kind of capacitor your want there. Electrolytics are cheap, and in that position they're out of the audio path so no need for anything super fancy. There's not even much DC derating of caps to worry about. Most people would prefer to work with THT electros over a SMD MLCCs

Updates, and an ETA on I/O boards?

There are no parts being hoarded by anybody that is making them hard to find for builders. It's a you problem my friend

G'day, Bought a couple of cheap grab bags of germaniums out of Eastern Europe from eBay, and was expecting a reasonable rate of failure due to leakage/poor gain - and to my shock, there was only a single bad transistor! I've got: *half a dozen GT402B's (100-150hfe, <150uA of leakage) *handful...

Yo dawg, I heard you like buffers.