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Sounds like dodgy footswitches to me, but definitely give it a touch with the hot stick.

Lol, yeah Stomp Box Parts sell legit stuff.

Are there any parallel resistors to the potentiometers? That would allow the use of non-standard pots. I can imagine a hack thinking 250k would give "more" delay, though. Lots of burned pads as well. Still, I'll bet it's repairable. Needs a good scrubbin'!

Where did you get the chips that are in-circuit in the pic? At first glance, printing seems odd.

Speaking from experience... Those gator clips on your pcb vice can- and will- scratch and damage the traces on that commercial pcb. Wrap the teeth in electrical tape to be safe!

A capacitor couldn't leak enough current to turn on a transistor and still be considered a decent capacitor..:unsure:

No, that schematic would not work as drawn. Maybe a couple of lower value resistors missing, about 1k, maybe less, parallel to C4 and C5? Got a pic of the build? Now I'm curious.. Edit: online schematics are the same, Dirtbox Layouts used it and has a "verified" vero.(1 user reports) I'll admit...

Any reason R15 would need to be higher than 1k?

Max voltage for the TC1044 is 12Vdc, so you're good. It is max input voltage, though, so it's kinda running on the edge. It'll put out +12v,-12v and something around >+22v I believe? If someone knows better, chime in!

So are C7 & C8 10nF or 10uF? Is that a mod? Or a typo? 10 nano 'lectro's? 10nF doesnt make much sense..

C7 and C8 connect to Q2's emitter, not the base. (Row N)

What a shitshow!💩

From the pics, its probably less than 20 yrs old. (Dammit :oops: ) it should have plenty of volume. Edit: I see from the pcb it's a RAT 3 Rev. B..

Can you get some resistance readings on the pots,( mainly just a continuity measurement, but if the resistance is odd speak up) [back in the day a fat slob slamdancing on my pedalboard comes to mind]) maybe a bad pot. Check continuity on that FS as well, it's been eyeing me funny. If not either...

No power filtering? In a Fuzzrite? "F-you, use a battery!" Gold pins are the MOJO

You need leaky diodes. Still, it can be very subtle. It's not a "distortion" per se, it's more of a "crispiness" in the mid- high end. Play the boost clean for most apparent results. Very low voltage Zeners can mimic germanium, but IMO, germ sounds best..

Ok back to it! Those voltages look good at a cursory glance, and Guilherme is right, JFET next! Flat side facing you, left to right, pins 1,2,3 voltages please. Is it a 2n5458? Edit: just realized we're in general. We should probably move this to troubleshooting..

I put a 9/18 volts switch in mine, and I much prefer 9 volts. Guess I just like it a little dirty.. So I'd say pull the charge pump out completely. If you must have a charge pump, I say go with dual +9v/-9v rails!

In 30 years, I've repaired maybe 10 odd RAT 2 pedals, probably 7 of those had a faulty op amp. Seems all would be OP07. The boards are fairly robust, but I do remember one had some liquid damage, and was de- laminating. Wires are very cheap feeling, but adequate. Your experience can vary, but...

Is that an original footswitch? IME, a RAT usually fails op amp first, at least if it has a few years on it. We would need voltages.