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It looks straight out of a late 80s Jackson/Charvel catalog. I love it.

That artwork is awesome. Definitely gotta have a100k for distortion knob imo. I like b100k for the tone in a Rat, even though the original ones had logarithmic pots in all three spots. Volume I can go either way.

That's pretty cool. I just recently came across a video of one of those jigs, but the thought never crossed my mind that someone would actually be using one to label pedals. I'm impressed.

The only issue I have with a floyd on a Gibson is carving away even more wood around the nut so the headstock is even weaker.

That looks good. How are you labeling the controls?

Sometimes the input capacitor can hold some charge and when you engage the pedal that built up charge causes a popping noise. With the 1m resistor it always has a path to ground to eventually bleed off. If you use the default 3pdt wiring from the Pedalpcb docs, the input of the circuit is...

Robert, can we get a BOM for this Scabbard overdrive? https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb665/

That sounds gnarly as hell! I love it.

I'm not real precious when it comes to modding or fixing vintage gear, but in this case I would just build a new muff off a fresh pcb with whatever mods you want to experiment with. You can put a muffin pcb on one side of a 1590bb enclosure then run wires over to extra pots and switches on the...

Now that I'm looking again I would put a resistor on pin 5 from vref. You'd still need it even if the buffer wasn't bypassed. There's more tweaking to be considered. If the buffer is bypassed you have the 1uf cap going to the 1k resistor and the 10kc low cut control which is probably going to...

Your mids control isn't going to work if the buffer isn't on because the positive pin isn't biased without the buffer.

The pot is in parallel with the 390k resistor, so as you turn it the clipping pot up it goes from 390k resistance to about 152k. Plus that 2.2nf cap is in parallel so it's filtering some signal out depending on the resistance.

Linear or C taper. It looks like it's just a variable resistor on the input that decreases as you turn it up so you don't want A taper.

Out of curiosity are you using a guitar with single coils or humbuckers with it? I've tried a few dyna/ross comps, but they pretty much always sound like ass because I'm using humbuckers. I think the clip control is supposed to help with that. It's something I've been curious about.

I was about to say they'd be fine because it looks like they're just current limiting resistors to the bicolor LED, but they're also connected to the collector of Q4 so hopefully somebody can chime in.

That rocks! I've been so used to playing super thick fuzzes for a while that it's nice hearing something a little different. This still sounds blown out, but in a different way. How does that tone control work?

I had to look up the schematic. That R8 1m could have just been a pot for the output volume then they could have ditched that last op amp stage altogether. Maybe it was designed with the germanium diodes in mind and they stuck the other diodes on a switch as an afterthought? I'm not that...

It's just a buffer. You won't hear any audible difference. On my first one I made the mistake of putting in 2n3904s for the buffer transistors without looking at the build doc. I hate desoldering transistors, but I managed to get them out and put the right ones in.

Shika Fuzz and Ginormous fuzz come to mind. Both are very fat sounding fuzzes with tons of sustain.

I see you left the control pot wired the Devi way. One of the first pedals I built was a Soda Meiser on vero board and I found the control knob to barely work worth a damn. I'm not sure if it's because it was wired with input the wiper or it's just the overall circuit design. I always meant to...