Search results

I wish boss would have implemented something like this with the Waza pedals, I’ve seen people like VFE have selectable relay true bypass or buffered bypass on their pedals. I don’t see a reason why boss couldn’t. I find having a buffer at the start of the pedalboard to be preferable but 5...

New germanium diode pedal name - the leaky Russian

Thermionic distortion here also. That’s a vintage pcb these days.

This looks cool, it’s going on my list. I’ve been considering lately, buying like 100 SMD j201’s and 5457’s off mouser, and some of those adapter boards, and doing my own, at least I’d be set for a while, and not have to pay £2 each. But is a normal soldering iron suitable for tacking on SMD’s...

I’ve got one of those mega328 testers and i think they have trouble with jfets, I tried testing some brand new SMD j201’s and it also thought they were BJT. I bought them from a reputable seller and I’ve never heard of fake SMD j201’s as they are still in production and dirt cheap, so I used...

I bookmarked a thread from diysb about that mod with the intention of trying it one day https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=110115.msg1008843#msg1008843

the 4u7 / 560r by the op amp. they form a high pass filter at 60hz, so swapping the cap to 2u2 moves the filter to 129hz, and swapping to 1u moves the filter to 284hz. presumably increasing this corner frequency = less lows amplified by the op amp and therefore less sag/dropout as lows are the...

I had a DOA rotary switch on a dwarven hammer I built, opened it up and the metal bit that spins around making contact was loose. I think these rotary switches are just not very robust. any kind of oddball switch I never have much luck with. I also have a 50%ish failure rate on the cheap Asian...

That’s a very good idea, easy to run out of headroom with too-tall electrolytic caps with the bb enclosures. I’m too used to the depth of the 125b’s.

It’s the ‘clockwork orange’ from pcbguitarmania https://pcbguitarmania.com/product/clockwork-orange/

More pedal builders should use only 10k resistors and only 100nf caps, and just series and parallel them to make the circuits work.

Nevermind me, I was messing around with it again after taking a break, I noticed that this time slightly pushing on the pcb also got it back to normal sounding, so it’s gotta be an intermittent connection somewhere. inspect the pcb for the 5th time and what do I see, a SINGLE GODDAMN STRAND OF...

Not so bad with resistors as you can usually series/parallel one or two to get a correct value. me, I usually forget to order pots.

Hi guys, strange issue I’m having with a jfet clone of an Orange Graphic Mk II preamp, all is fine with a low input signal but it seems like if I bang the strings hard, or run a boost of some kind in front of the pedal, it suddenly gets very farty/bassy, and with slightly more gain. If i touch...

I usually run a compressor in front when I use a Rat pedal, just something subtle to knock back the attack of the note as I also like hot pickups and low tunings (though I usually don’t go lower than A). I like the Rat sag but only to an extent. I also like the bottom end the stock Rat circuit...

I have seen amp schematics with zeners wired back-to-back to ground but I’ve never looked into it further and also I’ve never seen it in pedals so I’m not sure how it works or sounds. these ones it turns out are wired correct though, as I posted above. glad I didn’t need to do any desoldering...

Good point, I hadn’t considered that you can tell cathode and anode from looking inside. Maybe hard to tell from the pic but it’s clear in real life: I compared it to a 1n34a and Russian D9E, and these diodes in the pedal do have the stripe on the cathode, so they are in fact wired...

that I understand, but the SI and GE diodes are connected in series on each side (one side with an additional LED for asymmetry) and if these green-striped GE diodes are Russian then the stripe should signify the anode. the picture may be hard to tell, but the diodes on the top left of the pcb...

Hi guys, quick question for those of you who know about germanium diodes, leakage, etc, I have an old modded tubescreamer clone I bought maybe 15 years ago when the boutique craze first got going, it’s been sat in the closet for years and I pulled it out recently. I was poking around inside to...

I don’t think I’ve seen anyone open up either of those pedals. Would be interesting to see, but knowing Fortin it’s probably something very vanilla or just a straight copy of some else’s modded 808. I think the marketing copy of the Maxon fortin OD9 mentioned red LED’s as clippers so that’s a...