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I did too. You just have to be careful to use them correct side up - I believe the correct side for a TO92 conversion is D-S-G. If you solder the FET to the other side the pinout is different. As these boards are so small, I had to use a magnifying headset to figure that out....

Help me out here - I last did an EE class in 1982. What I see on the schematic is that with the pot at 0%, the pot is open, so there is 0 resistance and the cap is bypassed, so maximum signal flows. With pot at 100%, you have the pot at 250k in parallel with 390k and 2n2, which is 152k || 2n2...

On second look it does seem the Clip adjusts level into the opamp by changing the resistance of the coupling resistors. The clipping diodes appear much later in the signal chain.

I was using two guitars, both with humbuckers, but one was.tapped. From the circuit diagram I think the clip function is a simple hard clipper, so it limits the signal and adds a little grit.

Next up on my list of winter pedal projects was the 401K, which I just completed. This build specified some resistor values that I didn't have (27k->22k, 56k->47k or 68k, 390k->360k, 4M7->2M), so I had to make some decision about what matters and what doesn't when subbing in other values. Also...

Yes I have a Chop Shop pcb ready to build. Regarding build quality, look at the image of the internals - ouch...

I'm going to test it some more today, this time (as the wife is out) with the amp cranked up to 'greater than bedroom' levels.

Good news! I guess I am too impatient with new builds. I checked the pedal over and couldn't find any problems, so I found a slot for it right in the middle of my pedal board and plugged it in to the isolated power supply. I then spent some time with each of the controls dialing it in, and...

Looking back, this was my first non-kit pedal. I can now see that my build quality is awful and, fortunately, my later builds are way better. However, this pedal is by far my favorite of them all so far. The woody tweedy tone this cranks out with the Tone knob at 11 is to die for. My Eternity...

Ok lets hear what you thought on the side by side. It should be possible to get the Herring and the Gainster to sound very similar by setting the Cut on the Herring to 22k of its B25k range. I'm loving the Gainster so much - especially with the Tone at 11 - that I'm tempted to build a Herring too.

That was an error I made in the build. I took the photos, then tested it, then fixed it. Thanks for comments on noise. I will do some continuity tests to make sure enclosure is grounded. I do, however, have a noisy environment - spot lighting, internet over power cables, wifi router in same...

Correct! On both jacks I wired hot to ground and ground to hot.

I have a batch of pcbs to work through this winter and decided to start with the easiest one, the Rangemaster / Naga Viper clone 'Dragons Breath' by pedalpcb. The build was very easy as there are few components in this design. It's basically a Dallas Rangemaster with a silicon transistor and 3...

Glad you built the mojo so I don't have to! As an engineer I've never been convinced by the mojo thing (except that one time I bought some Russian PIO caps for my Les Paul... did they sound different.... no) However, I have to say now that my build is a few months old that these Gainster clones...

Without the case this design is very noisy. In the case, it's fine, in fact it's exactly the same noise levels as an EHX Big Muff Green Russian reissue that I've got sitting next to it. So don't worry if your breadboard of a Muffin is noisy - they are. Even if you shorten the leads :) I played...

I'm a blu tack convert too. I just assembled a muffin and even used blu tack to hold the offboard wires exactly where I wanted them while I soldered them in place. I've used the tape method in the past, but blu tack seems much easier to use.

I'm also trying to test a populated but unwired PCB with no pots using the breadboard. I read somewhere on here that using toothpicks can help secure jumper wires to PCB holes. Has anybody found a better method, especially for the PCB pot holes?

Thanks. I ordered a 2N2222. Will be interesting to compare this booster with my Ge Rangemaster clone (which is noisy).

I have one on order. Looking forward to building a iconic compressor!

I'm going to build this and was wondering if using a 2N5088 (much higher gain) would work... has anyone tried higher gain transistors?