Search results

Chuck has an impressive mind.

Will an MPF102 work? Are they 100% the same as the PF5102 or just a reasonable substitute? I have a ton of them, and in most circuits, they are too low-gain to be used as a common-source amplifier.

If I were on Windows I'd be trying to use wsl & asfv1.

Good lesson. I'm a big fan of the EQD Tone Reaper, which uses a Si NPN Darlington in place of Q1 & Q2.

Looks like it might have been fried by overvoltage. I wouldn't bother trying to troubleshoot. Put it in the 'save-for-later' bin and try to make another one.

Or connect the 3 pins of the toggle switch to the 3 holes for the pot, and put a 470k resistor across the switch. Same result, but the wiring should come out cleaner.

Same spot. Between Modulation and Time effects.

I would have to interpret that as "Typical PAF frequency response that dozens of your favorite rock guitarists used."

Has anyone succeeded with the reflow technique?

This would be phantom powered right? DC injection over the R of a TRS cable?

The Pythagoras has 3 patches available. Maybe a clever mind can think of a way to turn it into 6 with an additional switch.

I'll try running it on the real hardware when I have some downtime.

I've been meaning to ask that. Can you recommend a hot air tool? I imagine conventional hair-dryers probably put out enough static to fry the chips.

If you have a way to cut it at the red line, that might be less noisy. If the pop is bothersome, your next best option is to just disconnect lug 3 from the pot. You figured that part out yourself, you just didn't need the left half of the drawing.

So you also want an LED to turn on when you hit the switch? And you want that light to turn off when the effect is bypassed?

The downside of switching R1 is that you might hear the footswitch click. Either method will be fine. Personally I would do R1 and run the wires to the footswitch on the left, and be very weary of picking up electronic noise from the logic chips. Those chips are flipping a square wave at over...

If that's all you want to do, all that's needed is cutting the connection to lug 3 on the pot; the left side of the DPDT switch you have drawn is unneeded. Better yet, put R1 on the switch instead. It will kill the dry signal just as effectively. The benefits are You can still use pcb mounted...

What is your idea? You want a secondary 3PDT footswitch to set the dry pot at zero and the oct-1 pot at max?

I settled on the CH341A devices sold on Amazon, and have it connect to the Pythagoras via 3.5mm headphone jack, much like varlogtim shows above. It's ugly compared to what PedalPCB had intended with the FV-1 Development PCB, but it works just fine.

Does it work in the SpinCad simulator?