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You're going to need a pipe stretcher & a metric (NOT imperial) adjustable wrench to fit that, and you might as well replace the muffler bearing while you're at it. The fudwell spanner has been phased out in favor of the turboencabulator anyway, so might as well go full hog. The hydrocoptic...

Those flying, uninsulated leads near the top row of pots looks like it could be a problem.

Yeah that relay looks a bit melted, which may or may not be a problem. u/zgrav has posted some great suggestions on how to test it. The brown marks on the solder side also may indicate that nearby traces are burnt out, so I would also check the connectivity between the circled pads and wherever...

This is a piece of "common knowledge" that I didn't come across until I was way deep into the hobby, and it comes up in most builds. Would make a great addition to the Wiki!

I biased mine at 6V with the Sag knob at it's loudest (I believe that's fully CCW on the Chop Shop). Gillaume from Fairfield talks about biasing in this FSB thread: "The Bias should indeed be measured when the SAG is essentially 0 ohms, loudest. And yes 2/3 supply is around 6V at the drain." If...

Glad to see they all tested OK! It's definitely worth measuring these now, it'll make life so much easier down the line. With the increasing difficulty of finding real JFETs, I'm sure they will be useful, even if just as a sub for other JFETs. I can confirm that your "2SK30A-D" is a likely...

Ahh, Chuck, always bringing "reality" into the equation! Too true on the relative response times, I think they're more interested in displaying the relationship between material type (0-7) and response time anyways. The more helpful (but still not THAT helpful) is a plot from the VTL5C3...

I often have the same trouble with machined sockets & thinner transistor leads. Do you just leave a super-thin layer of solder on there or what?

IMO, this is the biggest difference between real vactrols & homebrew LED/LDR versions. For effects like optical compressors and envelope filters, the response (rise & fall) time is a critical parameter - with rise time often in the sub-10millisecond range. Unlike LDR resistance, which can often...

Most builds called for a specific dark or off resistance (Roff), which you can measure with a multimeter. You need to block any stray light while testing. Try putting the LDR in a closed drawer or drilling 2 holes in a film canister so just the leads poke out and then measure the resistance.

I've soldered nearly 100 SMD JFETs and haven't killed one yet, so I wouldn't worry about it. SMD JFETs are probably a bit more temperature sensitive than through-hole versions, but only because they lack the heat-sinking that the soldered leads provide. On the other hand, the small heat mass of...

Mine was doing this too, especially with the Boost switch on. Try adjusting the BBD Bias trimpot again, this time with a stronger input signal: BBD Bias trim pot - Similar to the pot on a CE-2 or Caesar - Adjust for the least amount of distortion on the Wet signal, it's pretty obvious when set...

That should be fine. Not super familiar with this circuit, but you may want to beef up that 10uF filter cap to 47-100uF as the charge pump network you're removing was taking care of a lot of the filtering for Vcc.

I'm with you on this, especially for electrolytic cap sizes. They don't seem to have the smaller diameter & height options that Mouser & Digikey have, especially for 25V+ ratings. I'd love it if they could pick up the slack from Smallbear on stuff like transistor arrays/matched pairs, specialty...

Haven't had a problem with any ICs from Tayda, but I did get a noisy batch of PT2399s once. They worked, but each one sounded uniquely bad compared to each other & the good PT2399s I have. In general, I have no issues trusting what they sell. The only areas where I am a bit wary is discontinued...

The only reason I found out mine were fake was because I was using an SMD adapter PCB, so I could still use my transistor tester. You may want to do the same to figure out if they're legit.

Here are some things to check: R2/47k - Hard to tell in the pic, but looks like it might be 4.7k (Yellow-Violet-Black-Brown-Brown) - Use the resistor color code rather than testing with a DMM as you can't check resistance once they're soldered R32/10k - Also hard to tell, but looks like it...

For those kind of quantities, I'd reach out and ask about wholesale pricing before buying on their site. They should be able to give you a volume price break, and maybe even drop-ship cases to you depending on their supplier.

Where did you get your 2SK208? I recently received some SMD JFETs that were actually MOSFETs or BJTs, so there is a risk of counterfeits from non-standard suppliers (eBay/AliExpress/Amazon/etc.).

Is your board 100% SMD (including IO, power & ground headers)? Usually you'll have some through-hole components and pads for IO & power, so that gives you some built-in connections to the bottom layer. Beyond that, vias are usually required for boards with a high percentage of SMD components...