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Update: No continuity to ground from: IC1 pin 2, D2, D3, C7, R5, or Gain pot No inter-pin shorts in DIP8 socket. On to check all traces, I guess.

Update: Thanks to all for the help thus far. I verified that the tantalum caps are in the right way around. I put the IC in a known-good circuit, and it functioned perfectly... better than the JRC4558D that it replaced, actually. If you happen to have a Greer Black Mountain Crunch pedal, I...

Lately I've been trimming leads before soldering and leaving what's left flush to the board in the manner of MadBean. At any rate, I did bend the pots back and check, and there's nothing that looks like it would make unintentional contact. There is, however, some flux I'm going to remove...

R9: Brown, Black, Black, Orange, Brown and tests at 99.6k in circuit. I tested all the traces around that negative feedback part of the circuit (at least I think I did), but I'll probably do so again. Yeah, it worked... and well. It's frustrating. It's actually green goo, though you'd never...

Thanks for checking it out anyway. I appreciate it.

Yeah, a lot of the joints aren't show-quality anymore. Because I suspected I was wedging something loose while boxing, I added extra solder when re-flowing. I even added solder from the obverse side for most components. That's why the wire insulation is cooked in so many places close to the...

Thanks for looking. The DC jack was a standard-sized Stompbox Parts house-brand innie. The metal nut takes up less room than the plastic nut on Lumberg innies. The bare 9V+ wire was insulated when boxed. I was too lazy to get up for wire strippers when I started troubleshooting and just slipped...

Good eye. It's two in parallel to get to exactly 47 pf. My stock of 47pf MLCCs are all laughably under-spec.

Again, it's not working out of the box. And it's not currently in a box. The pots all have dust covers.

I've exhausted the limits of my knowledge and fortitude, and I'm begging for help now. I'll try to be brief. I boxed and then attempted to rock. No joy. Bypass mode, however, worked perfectly. I pulled the lid and noticed the D2 clipping LED was solid on... and bright at that. D3 was solid...