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Thanks for the response! It doesn't sound underwhelming. In fact, the sound of the circuit is unique, biting without being too piercing. I like it! It's just that the static noise is nearly half the volume (or more) of the circuit sound.

Great info! Thanks, man! (Always learning.) I'll tinker with the temp more until it's just right. My solder is only a few months old, so I'm pretty sure that's not the issue. I built another circuit this week and had no issues.

Wow! GREAT info! Thanks! I'll go back and touch up those areas tomorrow morning and see if that goes the trick. Man, I really appreciate all that you put into that response! (I'm a little blown away by your kindness and generosity in being so thorough.)

Thanks, friend! I reduced the temp to 700° this week, just in case I've been running it too hot for a year or so and I've had success. I haven't returned to the TS-50 build. As far as solder goes, I've been nervous to try solder with lead in it, and (for the most part) I've had success with...

Does this solder look okay? I've used it on around 200 projects with no issues before this one. Also, I've always run my soldering iron at 775°, based on a message I saw in a forum a couple years ago. But I've been wondering if that's too hot. ... E ENERSYSTEC Lead Free Solder...

Here are some new pics. Same noise, but it's cleaner.

Thanks, bro. I put a new tip on my soldering iron and went over everything again with a fine-toothed comb. I resoldered anything that looked even slightly suspicious, cleaned up blobs, and reinforced a few places. I made sure nothing was bridged, including C25/26. Then I checked again. I'm still...

Alright, my seriously smart friends. I need help. I decided to try something different. This TS-50 pedal from AionFX looks promising and unique. It incorporates three inductors and a DC converter. I finished the build and it passes signal both in bypass and active, but it's NOISY! There's a...

Thanks, bro! I jumpered both tips to their respective pins and it fired right up. Woo-hoo! Thanks so much for the helpful suggestions!

SOLVED! Yes! That worked! Apparently BOTH traces were damaged when I removed the old jacks. GO FIGURE! I jumpered it like you said, and got sound. Woo-hoo! Thank you!!!

LOL! It definitely looks like code of some sort. As far as the advice, I'll double-check, but I'm relatively confident I have already checked all those points for continuity with no luck. I'll check again and let you know.

Thank you for the detailed response, Brett! I'm not insulted by the question about the DMM. Yeah, I'm sure I'm using it in the correct mode. I have other connections on the board where the DMM beeps. I DID the old jacks (I have a previous post about that from a couple of weeks ago). I suppose...

No, there is no continuity, whether cables are inserted or not, whether in bypass or not.

That's correct. I don't have continuity between those two points. (Same on the output side.)

Sure!

I hate to keep harping on this, but does anyone have any other suggestions as to why I don't have connectivity between the jack tips and switches? Early on, I tossed out a few inexpensive builds that were too screwed up to mess with, but this one took a lot of money, time, preparation, and work...

Thanks for the response! I just tested it with and without cables plugged in and got the same results.

Any ideas on why their is no connectivity between tip and switch on either the input or output side?

No. There is no continuity between the tips and their respective pads on the breakout boards. Interestingly, the sleeves and rings connect to the pads (far left for the input jack and far right for the output jack).

What might be the issue(s) preventing connectivity between the input and output jacks?