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I need a simple and clear one knob boost for a mandolin. I have a stash of TL071 op amps and wondering if you have a PCB that uses that component in a simple, one-knob boost.

I figured it out. The grounded part of the VREF voltage split was isolated due to a severed copper grounding track. So, instead of 4.5V I was at 7V or higher.

I just built a rat on perf board, but when I test it, I get no sound until I pull the power plug out of the unit. When I pull the power cable out of the pedal, I hear the pedal working beautifully for a second or two. What is a common cause of this?

On mouser they have $6 ones and $2 ones. Do you know the difference and if it is worth stretching for the more expensive ones?

What is the best substitute for the LM308?

Having trouble reading this schematic. What is going on with pin 5 here? (Muroidea circuit) Is it going nowhere?

Yeah, I think I was wrong about the Mic Mechanic not having a preamp. Apparently it does. I got confused because the volume is roughly the same if you bypass it even with a dynamic mic. So, it seems like my effect with need a preamp first within the circuit.

What I envision is a pedal with the left side being delay and the right side being reverb. Then, inside, 2 FV1 chips, one for the delay section that then goes into the second one for the reverb section. I was just wondering about the circuit and how I would handle XLR as it has 3 connecting...

I don't think so. What I want is very similar to the TC Helicon Mic Mechanic. I think it is unity gain without a preamp. I know it doesn’t have a volume knob on it. I suppose I could look at the schematic. With the Mic Mechanic, the preamp stage still happens at the mixing board.

I’m thinking about building a reverb pedal for vocals. (FV1) This means I would be working with XLR instead of 1/4” mono guitar jacks. What are some things I need to consider when designing a circuit with XLR jacks? For example, I imagine I will need to keep power negative and earth separated...

Actually, when I loaded the cart with more items the shipping increased. Usually, the opposite would happen. This is as of a few days ago. For example, a $400 order had a $200 shipping option only. Not sure what’s going on.

If it were my order, I’d fill out a ticket. Goto Help Desk (menu link) and fill out a ticket. It may have been overlooked. If it was painted enclosures, I’d say wait, but since it is just parts, I’d inquire about it. I suppose it is possible they are waiting on a part but that’s never happened...

I noticed a huge increase in shipping costs for Tayda. And only one option, DHL. I hope that’s temporary. Usually the more you buy, the lower the shipping costs. Now it just keeps going up. (Talking about the estimate shown in the cart.)

Today I bought the Spatialist. I will only need to use the shimmer mode patch. How could I modify it to not use the rotary switch but just hard wire it to always be in shimmer mode?

I use both but I like the shine I get from the sponge. Plus every once in awhile I get burnt wire on the iron and the sponge seems better for cleaning that up.

Where can I get a soldering sponge that doesn’t have a donut hole in the middle of it?

I completely understand this. From start to finish, there is so much involved. I thought the same thing, questioning if it is worth the effort. I mean, it is like two worlds of disciplines… the outside enclosure and the inside circuit. Then, the business side and shipping, etc. not worth it...

Yeah, I actually agree with this. I wasn’t planning to release an Electra topology pedal, and wanted to release a modified Klon instead. The problem for me was that I wanted to “start simple” because I was learning DipTrace and how to place a PCB order, etc. It was more about “got to start...

Well, regardless of what others think I really appreciate the advise! As far as the recipe is concerned, I still have work to do, especially on 2 and 3. I can do it though. I’m building up and stocking inventory and working on packaging ideas. (Still brand new to this. I built my first kit only...