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I googled it and found this. Do you think this is a scenario where the 2N5457 would be a good substitute?

I’m working on an Ocelot which calls for a 2SK30A, but I don’t have any. I have this pack from Amazon (see attached) and I have some 2N5457s and some 2N5458s. Will any of this work as a substitute or should I place an order for the 2SK30As?

Here’s one of the other Buzz Fuzz pedals I found … AFTER producing mine. 🤣 I’ve been spending time trying to think of other names, but finding a unique name is proving to be difficult. For example, I thought of Bumble Buzz … looked it up and sure enough there is already one out there.

I would likely mention it in the description and in any printed instructions if any.

I have a question around branding. I made a batch of fuzz pedals to give to some of my guitar playing friends. Several have told me it is their favorite fuzz pedal. It is a Sandspur circuit with a modification in that I brought the internal trim pots out to the front panel and changed the taper...

Yes, thank you.

I realize this is a noob question, but I’m trying to understand something about the audio signal path vs the power signal path. I’ve always thought (before I got into this stuff) that the audio and power path are joined at some point within a circuit. Now I’m not so sure. Things I’ve noticed is...

I’ve wondered about this too. For a potentiometer, is it not enough to simply put the wire through the lug and solder it? Does it really make a difference if the wire is wrapped around and clamped prior? I guess my question is how strong is solder and if the solder didn’t hold wouldn’t it still...

I realize it’s slightly off topic, but how important is it to bend the leads on the flip side of the board when soldering? Most builders do this to hold the leads in place. Some say it is better because of the mechanical connection aspect (in other words, not depending solely on the solder for...

Good to know. I didn’t realize the tolerances could waver that much. I’ll definitely watch out for that. Out of curiosity, is returning them an option?

That surprises me. I would have thought the Mouser ones would be better.

Got my Tayda order and the resistors look great. Thicker leads than Amazon ones and no oxidation. Caps seem fine too. Thanks for the help making the decision. Worth the extra cost. I’ll try some of those other resources as well, but these will keep me busy for awhile.

Well, here is where I landed with substitutions. I’ve added the values in with a pen and a red ink dot to show where it is located on the board. I like this result, but might try other amps and guitars before calling it final. I’m open to feedback if you have any thoughts. Some of the values...

Better photos of enclosure.

So, tonight I started building out another one with sockets so I won’t have to breadboard the whole thing. This will allow me to try Chuck’s substitutions but also allow me to experiment and maybe stumble upon a version I like.

This is exactly what I want. Any idea how to go about doing that? I haven’t read the article yet, so if it is all in there, my apologies. I plan to look through it later.

Thank you for this. Lots here to explore.

So many Klon clones are gold because the original Klon was gold. (The Archer, Tumnus, etc.) In the fairytale, everything that King Midas touched turned to gold. Side note: I don’t like gold color pedals as much as other light pastel colors (crème, mint green, surf green, baby blue), so I was...

For what it’s worth, I did measure all the resistors today. (Except for the pots, haha.) Some were a little off, a little over 5% but nothing drastic. I mainly was double checking that I didn’t get Ohms and KOhms mixed up.

I’ll add that, in all fairness, the pedals do sound similar. I’m fine tuning somewhat subtle nuances. I use words like “nasal honk” only to describe the frequency I’m hearing a spike in, but it isn’t a huge difference. It is probably around 500-800Hz somewhere. (This particular batch has...