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You know, I did think that was true, re the tantalum caps, so thanks for reinforcing that. But I think there were subsequent versions that used all electrolytics. With a circuit that old and so many different schematics floating around the Internet, it's difficult to sort out fact from fiction...

Well, that certainly explains it. Hard to know which one is which without a scorecard. lol. Thanks for the clarification.

Being new to pedal building, I didn't know that there was a preference for top or side mounting the jacks. Seems to me that a lot of pedals currently marketed can be found with both types of configuration. So, is top mounting the preferred method these days or does it matter?

That's great. Again, something I never ever would have thought of. I will check those out. Thank you very much!

You are TOO right. I am a highly experienced tech, but visualizing how things should fit has always been my #1 weakness in life. I did indeed use my faithful solder sucker to remove the pots and insert them correctly. All is well. With the clarity of hindsight, I saw the square marking but my...

That is a truly superb idea that would never have crossed my mind in a million years. Thank you VERY much for that suggestion. I have already redone the enclosure, but I didn't throw out the old one, hoping to be able to use it for something at some point. I will keep your excellent suggestion...

So, I had to write the pretty box off as a complete loss. Then I drilled another identically sized box and found that it was all I could do to mount the pcb correctly. I removed (desoldered) the controls and resoldered them in the correct position, only to find that the drill pattern was wrong...

This worked the first time I turned it on, but the controls worked backwards. Unless I missed something, I didn't see anything that told me how to position the pots. Clearly, they go the other way around (I saw a picture of one that someone else built and it shows the top pots positioned above...

Thanks for the link. I just sent the seller a message. Hopefully he will answer it and I will let you know what he says. The only commercial ones I have been able to find are from Mouser. I was hoping to find some that are standard size. No luck yet.

My next build is a little closer to home. For the past couple of years, I've been fabricating and selling clones of the original MusicMan Stingray bass preamp. I was lucky to find a legit modern source (NJM) who produce an exact replica of the original LM4250 op amp which is crucial to the...

" "You've mentioned several times in both your threads that the breakout-board is defective because there's no connection between "SW" and Lug-4; there is NOT supposed to be a connection there" - That's NOT what I said. I said that the trace on the daughterboard was open. Normally, there is a...

I am VERY glad you made that comment about the switches being on the wrong side. As you say, I learned quite a few lessons building this otherwise simple pedal. I didn't see that you could build in an effects loop until it was too late. If I re-house the pedal, which I may do, then I will get a...

Keep in mind, although I am not an expert on every facet of electronics, I do have two degrees in Electronics Engineering Technology with a B.S. from Cal Poly. Over and above that, I have over 50 years hands-on bench tech experience running my own electronics repair business, initially working...

I did get the board done, after making sure to put the switches on the wrong side first. I desoldered them and moved them to the correct side. Then I grabbed the wrong template and drilled the holes too close together, so I widened them and covered the excess with huge washers. Looks really...

I don't know if you're following this any longer, or if indeed anyone is going to read this, but the build had one final problem. I had no problem desoldering the switches and moving them to the other side of the board. Then there was figuring out how long to make the leads for the LED, but...

This is hilarious. I generalized my knowledge from the other builds, as they had the controls mounted on the soldering side, so without thinking about it, I just did the same. Well, there were clues, and now I know what to look for if (hopefully, but more probably when) this happens again. Now...

Okay, thanks for that thorough reply. Here's a picture. At the top of the box, between the jacks are the four holes in question. The two outside holes are connected, and the two holes on the left are also connected. So, the outer two are Grounds. If the hole second from the left is (-) or...

The fun never ends. I just finished drilling all the holes and mounting the hardware, so all that remains is to wire it up, and that's when I came to a dead halt. For clarity, this appears to be a Rev 1 board, due to the components and layout, plus the switches are closer together compared with...

Thanks, Robert. By the time you responded, I had already seen the connection on the schematic, but I do appreciate your help regardless. Bud

Ok, It's official. I am a moron. The schematic clearly shows the path from the 4.7K CLR to the SW connector at the bottom of the board. Sheesh. Thank you very much for heading me in the right direction. Problem solved!