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Same manufacturer, slightly worse specs but it won't matter for our purposes. Seems like a good fit. There probably are other DC-DC converters by different manufacturers with specs even closer to the obsolete part available, maybe even cheaper. Would have to compare datasheets. In other words...

I'll have to look into that. I wanted to use these in NPN Rangemasters if leakage wasn't too high but that's not going to work I guess.

Not great 🥲 So yeah, avoid the AC187K at Reichelt. So they are. Guess I got some cool new GE clipping diodes now.

That's a bummer. I had an alert for some AC187K back in stock at a big German electronics store (Reichelt), so I placed an order yesterday. Not even sure where these come from. Reichelt doesn't usually deal in NOS as far as I know. Should be here tomorrow or the day after. I'll post my findings...

That is the way. The reverse image search on AliExpress is pretty good as well. Used it a number of times to find bulk deals on knobs I saw on Tayda or elsewhere.

The master volume control is a simple voltage divider. With the master volume at max, the 11K will form a voltage divider with the 10K of the master pot going to ground. The maximum achievable output volume will be dropped by a little more than half because of that.

The low pass filter is formed by the combined resistance of the filter pot and the 1.5k resistor, and the 3.3n capacitor to ground. So the cut-off frequency is 32kHz with the filter pot at minimum, and 475Hz at max. The 1k resistor is there to limit the current going to the diodes. But either...

That appears to be it. Thanks for the link!

I was experimenting with the below Rat circuit (Aion FX Helios). The mode switch is on-off-on. I took out the LEDs (D8, D9) in order to only hear the op amp clipping with the switch in the off position. Another mod was taking out the diodes D4, D6 and D7, leaving only a single 1N914 (D5)...

Nope. Order of series components between two nodes doesn't matter generally.

Looks okay to me and behaves pretty much like a normal tone stack: http://www.guitarscience.net/tsc/fender.htm#RIN=1k&R1=22k&RT=50k&RB=50k&RM=2.5k&RL=1M&C1=2.7n&C2=1m&C3=470n&RB_pot=LogB&RM_pot=LogB&RT_pot=LogB

Correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that a short circuit basically has infinite capacitance. You could plug something like 10mF into the TSC for the bass capacitor to simulate that.

I think he means how does the bezel stay put in the drill hole. These will kind of wedge themselves in the hole if your drilling is precise. If it's not, a bit of hot glue does the trick.

Marked the ground tracks in green. Looks faithful to the schematic to me. Q1 E goes to ground through the two 47uF caps. Q2 C goes to ground through the 22K resistor and 20K trimpot. Both emitters are tied together.

I'd just try to bend the leads of the film cap to fit. Maybe fit it from the other side of the board if it's too wide. It may not look nice but it'll be an upgrade from the MLCC as well as the electrolytic.

That was beautiful. Great feedback control too!

Or save the money and learn a new guitar skill :D

That is pretty cool! Probably like most people, I only associate the HM-2 with the dimed controls Swedish chainsaw tone. In the demos on the site, I actually like it best with more neutral EQ settings. Really puts the unique character of the distortion in the foreground.

Yes, there are probably a lot of caveats. Not least of which: "Is it really necessary for building guitar pedals?" And probably no, you can throw in a 100nF film cap to decouple the power pins and it'll be fine because film caps also have quite low ESR compared to electrolytics. Maybe omit it...