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Sorry for the super late reply on this…my life has been nutso. @lrgaraujo and @Tpruitt this is from a separate offline convo about the issue between @PedalPCB and myself… “ The original RRED doesn't have trim pots for setting the bias, it uses fixed 33K resistors and the 2N5484 transistors...

Thanks guys.

I think I know the answer to that (it’s “yes”?) but I wanted to ask. I just notice in general that when I order parts—no matter if it’s Mouser, or somewhere more “boutique-ey” like Tayda or Small Bear—it’s virtually impossible to find radial electrolytic caps with listed tolerances of under...

See that's the way the schematic looked to me as well...the way they show 3 and 5 as the LONGER poles in the drawing? But when I actually, physically stick a 1/4"plug into that jack and look at what is physically happening in its "guts", it really seems like the tip is coming into contact with...

Hey so can somebody here help me "decode" the proper pinouts on the Tayda jacks that @PedalPCB recommends for passthroughs on the build doc? I've tried wiring them up several ways based on the build doc illustration, the Tayda pinout diagram, and photos from other people's build docs, but...

Good call I'll try that out and report back.

I'll pop it open for ya someday soon!

Just circling back to mention that these recommendations for bypassing the overdrive section worked really well, and the pedal now sounds much more transparent and functions much more like the currently-on-the-market little blue nano-attacks. These things are little marvels for adding punch and...

Hey dudes, circling back to this topic…my build has been done for a coupla weeks now and it went pretty flawlessly. SO… @temol you were absolutely right about those test points, and I was indeed able to get readings that changed with the trimmer twisting, by using the probes as-recommended. But...

Hey @PedalPCB as an early purchaser of the first batch of these PCBs, I’ll likely be starting my build before you get done with the official build docs. I already bought the components using the values on the PCB itself. That being the case, I was wondering if you or some other forum wizard...

Thank you all for the great insights!

I just notice that they tend to be available with far tighter tolerances than their ceramic disc counterparts. Never used em in a build before, so I didn’t know if there was anything about their function or how they affect signal/tone that makes them verboten for pedal building? they are...

As you can hopefully see from the pics, I’m holding in my hands two Mouser dime bags that say, respectively, 470pF and 250pF, whilst the caps INSIDE those bags say 470k and 250k respectively. This is a Mouser FAIL, correct? I’m a total newb to all this, but kiloOhms and PicoFarads are not even...

THANKS! Excited to try this!

Thank you @PedalPCB ! So, a trio of newbish follow up questions if you don’t mind: 1.) when you say “jump pads 1 and 2” on the drive pot, would that literally be—of the PCB’s drive pads—the first two pads from left to right? 2.) Regarding removing the “clipping diodes”, that would be the two...

So I notice that the Dwarven Hammer is ACTUALLY a lot closer to the earlier “Attack Overdrive” made by ProTone pedals (also in partnership with Misha Mansoor). It has those full external pots for overdrive, volume, and treble. Two questions: 1.) Is it possible to simply strap internal trim...

Oooookay so bottom line it’s “a tube thing”. Thank you @PedalPCB for the Cohesive explanation and everyone else for the, um, incohesive ones?

I swear I tried Googling the s$&t oit of this first and came up with zip. Sorry if it’s a dumbass newb question.

Perfect sense thank you!