And in case you might understandably conclude I should probably find another hobby, here’s a pic of the ‘59 “Greeny” Les Paul I built and it sounds great! Not exactly professional luthiery but I love it.
Tks, Buddy. Now that I’ve found my stupid reverse voltage mistake, I think I’ll continue. I’m retired (twice!) so I have the time. I don’t work on it constantly so it’s really been kind of fun despite all the frustrations. And of course I do REALLY appreciate all the help from EVERYONE...
Ok. 9v+ to the diode pin (diode is no longer there as I clipped it out…..), put the bridge in place of the missing diode. Now get 9v to C100 and about 5+v to C20. (Took me FOREVER to remove the - wire from the PCB. De-soldering cord worked pretty well on the + pad but neither it nor the...
Well, I check the voltage on the power cable and it reads -9v! If I connect the black cable to the center and red to the sleeve, it reads +9v. so, yes, I guess I’m feeding -9v to the +power pad. Damn.
😆 Scratch one diode! Well, they’re pretty cheap…… Meanwhile, still checking resistor values. No wrong ones so far - about half way through…….ok, all resistors check out correctly.
So, checked the d100 pads and they connect to + power and r101 respectively. Attached the bridge but the IC stsrted heating up right away. The cathode pin does show connectivity to C100.
So, it’s correct that there’s no continuity between the + and - pads, right? Also, none of the vcc points, I.e. the Q’s, show connectivity to ground. Only the r4 seems to read 188 but no beep. Here’s a new pic of the solder side. Ugly, I know.
There is no continuity between the + and - power pads. Took the jumper off as soon as the IC started heating up. The only bridge I can see on the solder side is one I put in between r6 and q1 per a previous posting.