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Hmmm, I was expecting the daughter board to be supplied by the main board. If I get this right, right now you are supplying power directly to the main board and it’s working, so …. Where did you get the daughter board, do we have specs or instructions with it.

Why did you add power to the daughter board ? Don't you already have that from the main board ? Disconnect that power and test the led pad... you'll probably be right where you should... test it first don't burn more leds...

Nope, just solder some wires from the LED legs (with shrink wrap) and connect to it this way..

Well if the pedal is working, why not just put a resistor on the daughterboard and connecting the LED to it also ? You're likely right in your assumption that it could be caused by the PCB to daughterboard relationship, but it seems a waste to dump the switch and daughterboard...

Funny, I've always wanted one and probably don't need one... I'm just a gear nut like that. I have so many tools I've never used, but the day I need them.. I'll have them :D

You seem to have a 47k in R103 instead of a 4k7... I see yellow-violet-black-red-brown.... Actually look at most 4k7, you seem to have put 47k... I could be wrong, but that would be a common mistake..

That's weird, the only thing that I know that can burn a resistor is excessive current, the fact that you reverse the polarity should not be the cause...Oh well...

Do you mean reverse polarity ? I don't think you can burn a resistor that way...

That's my bad, I should have mention the use of the 4k7 in the LED circuit... Sorry about that...

So I guess the inspection only saves 29 posts :D Joking aside, get a proper setup to hold the board, either third hand helps with rubber clip of one of the PCB holder style I posted in the other thread. I think many of your problems comes from grinding/scratching the path off the PCB... Keep...

Great news... about your LED, you can try replacing it, but I suspect you might have just reverse the polarity. Take the existing one out and using a 9V battery just test it. That will let you find out with leg is positive, mark it with a bit of tape and re-install it paying attention to the A...

Yes, connectivity between D100 to R101 and C101+... because you do, it sounds like you jump over R100. Just change the jumper end from one side of R100 to the other side of R100. After doing it, you should no longer have connectivity between D100 and C101+. But connectivity should remain...

If those alligator clips don't have rubber cover, that could be the source of many of your problems. Last thing you want is metal touching/scratching the board. I can't tell if this jump (ends) is correct. Maybe you could check if you have continuity from the protection diode to R101 or + of...

So, how did you select which side of R100 to jump ? Normally, when R100 was removed, you should have read 9V on one pad and 0v on the other. The jumper needed to be put between the 0v pad and the + side of R101. You should get continuity between one side of R101 and the - of C101 and...

Well it’s not perfect but it’s progress… And yes, as @Sturdag Lagernathy said, no power in the circuit when testing for continuity. If you think about it, your DMM is applying current to the probe for your continuity test. If there is a path, it will send current from your red probe, pick it...

No worries... you've got a good part of the problem pinned down. At the end you should: Have continuity from R100 to R101, R100 to C101 and R101 to C101, that basically the red section here: Then, you should be getting a reading of 9V on one side of R100 (green side) and 4.5V on either...

Well that doesn't make any sense to me.... Ok so R100 is our issue, but you said you have reflowed it... Here's what I would do... Remove R100, clean up the solder (you have wick ?) check if the pads are intact... Check you continuity to R101 and C101. If both checks out, re-install a new 47k...

See that's what is weird... inconsistent continuity is signs of bad solder. You need to have continuity between them two... Let's see if we can spot which one is bad... check for continuity from both R100 and R101 to C101 (positive side).

Can you check the value of C101 ? So there's a problem between R100 and R101, they should see the exact same voltage. You said there was continuity ? Do you measure your voltage on the solder point or on the resistor legs ?

I just checked that for him from the picture... I see a 47K on both location.