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https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/muscovite-muff….7846/ Yep ... with your comment, I now understand how the resistors are connecting/wired. So if I understand clearly, I do the same with the capacitors? ... 1- Solder together on leg each of 470p and 430p caps 2- Solder the remaining legs to...

I've got 1n4001, 4002 and 4006. I'll mesure my stack to see what test close to .525v @ 1mA I've got some BC548B, 548C, 549C and 550B but no BC547 or 2N4401. I'll order some and until then I'll socket the closest transistor until then!

Unless someone very (extremely) patient would walk me through it!

Wow ... that is just amazing! My current level of knowledge/TechConfidence ain't high enough to go full speed into merging these two under the same roof for now but I just book mark your post about your build and I'll put this one in my bucket list!

What Hfe should l be targeting for? I was planning on using the 2n5088. Should I switch to a different transistor or just be selective with the 2n5088 I have on hand? I have about 25 right now and they are in the 500-600 Hfe range. Currently doing the Stomp '75 violet rams head before I was...

I love muffs so I'll probably just build both. Curious to know how you managed your build to be able to toggle between the two versions ...

I missed that ... you are correct! Thank you for clarifying the purpose of Q4 and it's relation to R22. Very helpful!

Looked at the component difference between the Green Russian and the Civilian. I knew there was not much difference between the both and they are from the same era but I was surprised to see that the only difference was R22 that connects to the Q4 emitter (2k vs 2k7). I will probably socket R22...

Very well explained! Thanks for taking time to elaborate. Understanding that, I won't hesitate to adjust the heat as I go when solder won't flow ... combined with the chisel tip.

I will … I plan to begin a project next week! Possibly a Big Muff ….

I use both brass and sponge to clean my tip depending on the look of it. My soldering station temperature gets the iron back to set temperature pretty quick. Most of the time in flows as expected but once in a while on some projects or components, solder just does not wish to cooperate. In...

I believe I use the 1/32 size but I'll order a chisel tip and try it out. Thanks for the tip!

From The solder as rosin core but I still added some additional flux when I noticed It wasn't flowing as usual. So being a combination of things, I went back this PCB with the solder sucker and redid a few solder to my taste. My soldering station temperature was dropped to 390C so I cranked it...

That was on of the component that was more challenging in this case so that may be a factor.

Practice builds confidence. I did more soldering lately and got better at it overtime. I did some pretty clean PCBs lately. Most days the solder just flows through easy peasy. Every now and them, I hit a project that the solder just won't flow right. Today was one of them. The solder would stick...

I'll keep using them until they run out!

I've been using this SBP model before they got the B Grade run (not fully flooded with epoxy). I like the light click and they worked well for me so far. I risked going for the B grade on my last order. I'm not worried ... I still expect that will work out as the previous batch as it states it...

Got it! My DMM doesn't have a diode mode so this just got bump up on my list! Anyone as a DMM model to recommend?

Ok so i'm good as far as transistors go but for diodes, I'm still confused on what I should be interpreting our find relevant out of the readings on the TC1 when trying to compare either to the data sheet or the Vf value on the sellers web site. I hope my questioning ain't silly! BAT46 TC1...

Thanks for jumping in. I gently use IPA to clean them up before being reassured by everyone that it was fine. I will just use them as is next time around. They worked great on my previous builds!