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Thank you. I can see now those other two pins on the audio jack are bent to fit the shape of the cable jack. Does it matter which one I choose? Also do you happen to know whether the L and H mean anything at all?

Propably the most puzzling for me is the footswitch. I've seen DIY footswitch soldered before and it looked like a bowl of spaghetti. There's six holes on the pcb, nine pins on the FS. Tried to google some gutshots of Low Tide but they all had this neat FS that did not attach wires to the pins...

The holes for diode are "A" (round) and "K" (square). Does the length of diode pins indicate which pin goes to which hole?

Next, for the power supply on the pcb board there is + and - hole. There are two pins on the power supply input. One is shorter and has "X" next to it, the other is longer and has "25" next to it. Which is which?

I have an input and output for jack. One bears the letter "L" and the other bears the letter "H". Also there are three pins. On the board there are two holes for each, In+ground and Out+ground. My question is, do the letters "L" and "H" have any significance and how can I distinguish which pins...

Here is a photo so far. The diode, footswitch, input/output and power supply is still to be soldered. I checked all connections and they are all separated, only thing that connects them sometimes is the flux which I assume is no problemo.

Thank you, thank you and thank you. I'm close. All there is left to solder is power supply, footswitch, diode and potentiometers. Should I solder all remaining parts apart from potentiometers? Also how can I tell the + and - on a diode? One pin is significantly longer.

Done. I don't own an electrometer so I'll just finish it and see what happens.

I will consider that, thank you for encouragement.

Visuals are such a help, thank you for that. I'm pretty sure I understand how to do it. So the pads are for grounding?

You are right. It is a chance to learn and understand how some of the things work. I've learned new things already thanks to you all. I'll get this going and use it as a studio device and perhaps build a new sturdy one for my guitar pedalboard later on.

I'm sorry but I was not able to make it out. I know it's complicated. Could you please use the letters according to pictures I sent earlier. Let's say the front side is regular A and B, underside is AU and BU. Thank you for you patience.

Great news, thank you

And the short jumper would make it work and possibly stand the test of time? I don't know how to word it, but is such solution reliable? Also let's name the holes A and B. You said I can solve the lifted pad by making a short jumper from B to A, but I noticed that another pad was lifted on the...

That looks great and the price is reasonable! Thank you. The tutorial is nice but I bent the pins and so they wouldn't just slide out. That's where I probably damaged the holes a bit. I really messed up it makes me chuckle. Oh boy.

Can I please ask couple of questions. What does IC stand for? And next, I think I don't understand how the low-temp assist in removal of pins attached with regular solder. Do you mean that the low-temp blends with regular and the whole mixture will remain liquid longer?

I'm a newbie, please be nice but honest. In another thread I asked for help since I soldered a MCP602 Dual op-amp straight onto the board in a opposite direction. Tried to desolder it with no success. Many people advised me to chip off the pins and replace is with a new one. I chipped them off...

It has been done. I'll continue at the trouble-shooting section.

Will do, thank you very much!

I tried to do that but I can't reach it to snip off the legs as it is. I could desolder the surrounding components, clean the board up and replace them. The surrounding stuff is fairly cheap. All of it is, really. I think I might have thrown the towel in too soon. Something worries me though...