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Hey peeps. I got this washburn stereo chorus scx.7 in a lot of broken pedals cuz it was missing the back of it's case. So I rehoused it and it just barely fit into a 1590bb lol. Just a janky spare parts rehouse nothing special. But I'm getting a ticking noise when bypassed (clock noise?). Any...

The "intermittently malfunctioning" reminded me of when I bought a HF-2 that was supposed to be working perfectly. I could've got a partial refund or something but I just fixed and didn't mention it since I just had to reflow some joints. I don't have any mod recommendations but wanted to share...

To give an example my recent order placed this month was Subtotal $225.893 Shipping & Handling $62.61 (including tariffs as well) Grand Total $288.503

My little haul of various germaniums

Oh good point. That reminds me I watched a video a couple months ago where a dude was swapping all the diodes and iirc he did mention that it did add to the fuzzy nature of the sound due to the crossover distortion. Unless I heard from somewhere else. Here's the video in case anyone finds it...

Oh good to know! I hadn't looked into the circuit on that level in a while and here I am focusing on those lol oops. That's what I get for staying up too late. Thanks yall. I need to order some knobs anyway so I'll throw a couple of these in on an order so that I can experiment anyway I suppose...

Fair enough well thank you. I took a peak at the forum first and saw some people recommend the D9E and some disagree about it. I'm probably gonna end up putting a bunch of diodes on a rotary switch to have different clipping options on it so I think I'll give those a shot too. I saw someone say...

So apparently there are new production 1n34a's from new jersey semiconductor, and "pedalpartsandkits" is selling them. But stompboxparts seems to have old ones and apparently the batch is within a tighter spec. Do y'all have any advice on which I should get or any experience with the new...

If/when you build one and it doesn't sound like you wanted, sell it to a buddy. I don't recommend trying to make any sort of business of it. Especially since they're saying you need to be able to stand behind/take responsibility your product if you sell anything and you're just skipping over...

in Olas video at first he had a shit mic position but he moves the mic half way through the video time stamped it for the link

i did the little debbie version i think (dirty shirley?) and honestlyu i didn't like it much for like, brutal metal its more marshally, better for classic rock/metal revv g3 is pretty dang sick, and the aggression modes are pre boosts so you dont need an od with it at all

thats a strong claim, selling the amp cuz the pedal does it might have to order one of those boards my next order

I have a spare pre drilled hammered copper or whatever they call it from my last tayda order, definitely plan to make one in it!

which bezel did you use?/are you testing outside or in box? cuz if you are using a metal bezel it could be shorting it also i imagine putting a led on just one side should work fine

In the case of pedal pcb projects alot of them have square being negative (short lead/cathode), but yeah since its aion you could use a multimeter to see which side goes to ground.

I haven't posted about it, and I haven't tried any mods (just built it last week) so I can't really comment on that. But yeah true, plumes for low gain, g3 for the chugs

i just built a greengage and tyrian and can confirm great pedals (y) but also the aggression modes on the g3 seem to be a pre boost so dont slam it with the greengage or it will start to fuzz out but can still use it before for tone shaping in the normal mode

That yellow power wire looks like its on its last thread on the board side, and for some reason instead of using a diff color for the positive of the power you did for the negative when the wires beside it are ground for audio jacks, so I thought it looked wrong at first too. Once you've...

Well it is a gate (sorry had to) Resistors can read weird when in the circuit so as long as the color code is right then the weird ones should be right. I havent used those purple caps so i cant verify if you did correct polarity for those. The fets or ic are a safe bet to be the problem but...

It only changes the clipping/distortion/od section (led vs silicon vs opamp), so it'd be most noticeable to see the difference on higher gain settings. Also if you don't have a multimeter that you can use to check the switch real quick, you should probably get one.