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Ok back to it! Those voltages look good at a cursory glance, and Guilherme is right, JFET next! Flat side facing you, left to right, pins 1,2,3 voltages please. Is it a 2n5458? Edit: just realized we're in general. We should probably move this to troubleshooting..

I put a 9/18 volts switch in mine, and I much prefer 9 volts. Guess I just like it a little dirty.. So I'd say pull the charge pump out completely. If you must have a charge pump, I say go with dual +9v/-9v rails!

In 30 years, I've repaired maybe 10 odd RAT 2 pedals, probably 7 of those had a faulty op amp. Seems all would be OP07. The boards are fairly robust, but I do remember one had some liquid damage, and was de- laminating. Wires are very cheap feeling, but adequate. Your experience can vary, but...

Is that an original footswitch? IME, a RAT usually fails op amp first, at least if it has a few years on it. We would need voltages.

I can't get a clear download; got a better Pic? Or is it too soon?:unsure:

May be the viewing angle in the pic, but is the input jack "tip" lug touching the power jack nut? Would the "out" jack tip contact the power jack ground lug if a plug was inserted?

Yes, you can.

It's straight out of the datasheets. Can't remember which one, but it's not a proprietary thing..

The schematic suggests the order is: Ringer > Bender > Muff. A cursory glance at the circuit traces seems to agree.

College? Night school? Barring those 2, it just takes time, soak up everything you can!! Oh, and learn to love math!

Yes! Thank you! Can't wait for pt. 6! 💋🤌

Your diodes are probably fine. Leakage is part of the "mojo" of germanium diodes, and can mess with your measurements. As long as they conduct one direction and not in the other, they're (y)...

Are you using the same type LEDs in them all? Pull one leg of the LED and see if it changes the pop..

What drove the choice to use the LM358?

yes! That would lower the total available gain, R7 to 10k would be a great starting point!(y):geek:

Changing "drive" to 1M will not give less distortion. It will allow MORE total distortion. I would try changing D1 and D2 to LED's, or going with 2 x 4148 in series, both directions. If that's not enough, ditch the diodes completely. The caps you point out are part of the filtering, cutting out...

I was just making a dumb joke, changing contacts around shouldn't affect anything, I was really wondering more about the specific design choice!(y) I used v1.1 schematic BTW..

I built a few boards using this schematic, (after paneling I got 15 pcb's inside 100mm x 100mm.. 60 boards for 2 dollars and shipping at JLCPCB!) I changed the contacts on my schematic after noticing the on-at-power up design. I was wondering if there was a reason to do it that way... P.S. I...

This looks very interesting! Sooo crying out for some mods. U1A is begging for some filters, and maybe a muff tone stack after the diode, kick the gain up on U1B? 🤟

R5 and C2 form a low pass filter. R5, among other things, works with C2 to set a corner frequency and helps set AC current.