Search results

Beautiful guts on that thing!

Well, that counts me out lol.

Why the f*ck is there so much f*cking profanity on your awesome f*cking build?

My thought would be to have a buffer on the input, before loop 1, then a buffer on the output, after loop 2. Then no matter what you run before your loops (presumably guitar in, and amp out), you're buffered.

I don't mind modding it, it seems like nothing I can't undo. I'm likely going to mod the preamp for a little more treble anyway. I am hoping it's not mains voltage powering the motor and I am just reading the schematic wrong, but I won't know until I get it in for sure. I'm just trying to wrap...

My thinking is more about saving tape wear and wear on the heads, as well as the motor itself. I've never used one of these before, and I don't anticipate spending this much on one again, so I really want to make sure I keep it running as well as I can.

Seems reasonable lol. I didn't think about it being mains voltage, I was just thinking on how it would work functionally. Do you happen to know how using a relay to do it would work, and how it's safer? My only experience with them is with the PPCB relay breakout board, so not even in the same...

I posted about this on TGP here, but I thought I'd ask here too. Anyone have an Echoplex, and added a kill switch to the motor to save wear and tear? Seems as simple as a SPST switch interrupting the power to the motor, but I'm not sure. I saw discussion of using a relay or a (new to me term)...

It doesn't, but to me it's one of the more tedious parts, and often the difference between getting pedals built, and procrastinating by doing other stuff instead, like posting on forums ;)

I've always wanted tinned bonded silicone wire, but never found any. I've not looked in a year or 2 though.

Totally disagree. It's not super useful to measure one resistor, but if you have any number at all, being able to throw each one into the jig and not have to mess around with multimeter leads seems amazing. I won't get one printed, but the second I need to sort a bunch of components, I'm coming...

It's ALIVE! And it all worked first try! Totally shocked. Good call on the switched SEND, works great even without anything plugged in, I had anticipated just having to leave it patched if there wasn't anything connected. Pics attached for proof, and so I can be shamed for my rat's nest. My...

Perfect, thanks! I am just doing a switched SEND currently, in case there's nothing plugged into that loop, per your suggestion earlier.

Making progress! Question on this part, do I also need to connect the non-switched SEND tip to the return tip? Seems like I would.

I have heard they are useless snakeoil, but for the price, who cares? Not like it's a $1000 power cable or some other audiophile nonsense.

I have traced it already! But my girlfriend has the schematic. She goes to another school. In Canada. Thanks again for all your help, once I get my enclosure in and the iron heated up, I'm sure I'll have more silly questions!

Ah ok, that makes sense! One switched jack for each loop send, and then I can unplug the delays and still have my signal pass through. As promised:

Haha I will get some pics! Mmmm, pink Himalayan is my favorite :) Can you explain the purpose/advantage of the switching jacks for the loop jacks? I've not used them often, and I forget why I did. I have them in stock though. I think I get the isolated jacks for the remote switching though...

Change of plans! I looked at the Orion guts, and it's a pair of PCBs connected via ribbon cable, so I don't think I'm going to rehouse them. I plan on using this layout: I'm going to use a 1590BBS, to make things easy on myself lol. I'm also going to take your advice and use a relay for each...

Bearfoot Pink Purple fuzz!!!