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The bias trim TR1 10k trimpot - is there a target voltage for one of the nets? Or is it trim to taste?

I think this is how it looks with the midcut omitted. At least at a high-level, the topology now looks a lot like the Diamond Peak/"holy trinity" circuits, but with the added output buffer. Not saying it's the same of course. The OG trinity all have the same topology but not too much sonic...

I built all three of the "holy trinity" a few years ago... and I still have a Yankee Screwdriver Deluxe Turbo PCB in my "needs debugging" pile. But I've been rocking the Animals Diamond Peak circuit for over a year now, which is a record for me. So I'll definitely want to give this circuit a...

Technically, the schematic in post #73 above, but it's essentially the same as #1. Ahh, yes, I should have caught that! I suppose the parallel trick probably works best for linear taper pots, right? Anyway, thanks! Great circuit, and I have spare PCBs for anyone who wants one!

I built up a prototype based on the boost-only schematic posted above. Some questions... For the J113 Vp, per these instructions: In this scheme, the JFET source pin is left open (only connected to the DMM), right? Assuming I measured the the JFET correctly, the closest to the suggested...

How does the Zefram fit those toggle switches at the top of the enclosure, without interfering with the input and power jacks? @Robert did you happen to take a picture of the guts? I'm guessing those must be super tiny switches and connected to the PCB via wires? Or maybe all the I/O (jacks...

This is yet another revision of my "Hard Rock Pinnacle Purebred Drive", which is a @Chuck D. Bones modification of the Animals Diamond Peak Overdrive. Here is the build report for the first PCB revision, here is the second. I actually did a one-off third revision, see here. The third revision...

I used it on a gig Saturday night, worked and sounded great! I used it for lower-gain/edge-of-breakup stuff, and also to push my Hard Rock Pinnacle.

Here's my build of The Fingers Overdrive. This is a PedalPCB original. I believe it is essentially a Timmy, but with discrete transistors instead of opamps. I actually populated the board several weeks ago, but never got around to boxing it up. I got the incentive to box it up when I...

A trivial design correction, two weeks, and a non-trivial amount of cash later, I now have fully working buffered bypass modules!

When I just want an image of my PCB layout, I use my OS'es built-in screen capture tool.

I originally started with Eagle, back in 2016. At the time, KiCad either didn't exist or I simply wasn't aware of it. I was active on diyAudio back then, and Eagle seemed to be the default everyone recommended. I didn't have any frame of reference for comparison, having never used any...

Agreed, woeful was probably too strong of a word. Honest question, as I've never done either: what's the effort and final result difference when comparing self-etched PCBs against vero board? This absolutely, 100%! I definitely got a little out of the book, but even if I didn't get anything...

I got this book as a birthday gift, and read it. I agree with most of the comments above: it's not bad by any means, but is woefully out of date. I kinda-sorta have been doing his "stamp" method, though having it explained explicitly was useful. In particular, it seems obvious now, but I like...

The default resistor footprints in KiCad are basically just rectangles. This, at-a-glance, makes them look very similar to the box film capacitor footprints. It appears other programs have "shaped" resistor footprints. For example, I think all PedalPCB PCB resistor footprints are not...

Beautiful work, as always. The knobs on the Paragon/KOT - are those aluminum or plastic? If they are aluminum, from where did you source them? How do you find the treble balance on the Cast Iron? Do you find the "neutral" setting (i.e. all knobs at noon) to be a bit on the darker side, and...

So... turns out build #2 wasn't a simple "plug and play" calibration like I initially thought. Tonight I plugged into my Hiwatt DR504 clone, and in the process of quick-checking my pedals, I immediately noticed Amethyst #2 sounding pretty bad. Not only was the "distortion" I described here...

I tweaked the clipping section slightly, with an ON-OFF-ON switch, so you can have all three options (max headroom, LED clipping, 2n4148 clipping). I made R6 33k in series with a trimpot.

It becomes a drop-in replacement for most PedalPCB PCBs out there. ;) But not for e.g. EffectsLayouts, Aion, Madbean, etc. I did think about that a bit. But, I decided to deviate from the PPCB standard because... I added "BPW", ("board power"), basically just the power input (typically 9v)...

I never thought about trying to solder it upside down. I might just give that a try!