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I should have the quadratron and spectron posted in drill templates. If not let me know and I will post them. They are verified as well

Here is the drill template for the Xenotron. It’s confirmed. https://drill.taydakits.com/box-designs/new?public_key=UzZsNTU2RjdoN2tpbmtVMzFKbW5Ddz09Cg==

I haven’t personally tested it but according to the info above it looks like it should be correct. Until someone has one in hand I would say it’s not been confirmed yet though. I will try and order one soon.

I haven't tested it. This was my best guess. I just haven't circled back around to it. Also you will probably want to change the power supply hole. https://drill.taydakits.com/box-designs/new?public_key=cFIvQWJ6Z2lzZ0tHblQ3Vit1VDM5QT09Cg==

I can confirm that r27 is the clr. I usually use 10k for mine but it is personal preference. Change away.

I did make a real box for mine. I have since fixed the led i messed up when I changed boxes. I bent the legs on the jet led, lol. It works great. I won’t make anyone listen to my playing though. I can tell you it sounds like the original in the popular video.

Thanks guys. That’s what I was looking for. I didn’t know what it was called but knew it should be possible. I looked up hierarchical KiCad on YouTube and it showed me how to use it.

Is there a way to have multiple schematics saved in the same file? What I mean is if I am doing a stacked board for example. I want to be able to have access to both boards in the same file without having to save a top board and bottom board separately. Or what If you just have a large schematic...

For the string ringer, if you can measure center point to center point distance on the top two left pots that would be great. Also measure center to center from the top two outside pots. The two measurements will let me make sure my printed copy is to scale since I don’t have the board for...

I will try and get you a drill template for the string ringer. It looks like tayda offers drilling service for the 1590d. That’s the first time I have noticed it. It may take me a little longer as I don’t have anything set up for that box yet. Do you have the physical board? Since I don’t have...

I built the mangel wurzel and it’s awesome. I don't think it will fit in anything that tayda offers though. They have a bb2 and it’s about 5mm shorter than the bbs. The jacks would be way too tight. I had an old 125bb which is similar to the bbs and it barely fits. If you search mangul wurzel...

I personally use the @jimilee method and solder and forget it. It’s not like I am going to look at the board and it doesn’t bother me. Now @MichaelW has a plastic bowl filled with ipa and drops the whole board in it. He does this before he solders switches and pots so they don’t get messed up...

Here you go. As always I would double check with the actual board but this is based off the template in the build doc. The power is the smaller lumberg style and the led is 5 mm. https://drill.taydakits.com/box-designs/new?public_key=Nk83QUdySEQ5L3BYTFhON2kyaWlNUT09Cg==

So power seem fine. Next, since you are saying you get a big buzz in bypass it leads me to think something is wrong with your offboard wiring. Check and make sure your soldering on your switch is clean and no extra wire is touching anything. Even if your circuit is faulty you shouldnt get noise...

Put your black lead from the dmm to a ground and the red to pin 8. Make sure your dmm is set to voltage. You should get something like 9v and 18v depending on the switch. Another thing that will be helpful is an audio probe. Do you by chance have one?

A 1590bb would be 90mm x 115.5mm. Scan down on the link and you will see each side for the different boxes. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware-tools/enclosures/enclosure-uv-printing-service.html

I will give it another few days to see if someone has it. If not I will work on one for you.

It’s not the capacitor I am worried about. It’s the charge pump itself. I see this one has a switch for 9v and 18v. I thought you plugged in 18v (that’s my bad). Use your Dmm to verify on pin 8 of your ic that it has 9v and 18v depending on the switch. Pin 8 is the top right. Let’s start there...

9v is what you want. I can tell you if you plugged an 18v your charge pump is toast. That’s what I was going after. They are very sensitive to over voltage. Anything over 10v and they are usually fried. I was just trying to rule out the simple stuff. In most cases that’s what it is, something...

Sorry about the socketing. I was looking at a pic for this same board by linus. Not sure how it got posted here. What power supply are you using out of curiosity?