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The “Blend” on the Caverns is Reverb side is the same as the “Mix” knob on the ThreeVerb, and same with the “Blend” knob on the Delay side.

R3 is a limiting resistor to ensure that the bias resistance never goes below 1K (like what would happen if you accidentally turned both the bias and sundial controls all the way down to zero). Its presence is just insurance and it doesn't hurt to leave it in the circuit, at *worst* it's the...

Yep, that’s more than close enough In a perfect world, yes; Q1 in the original Benson pedal was measured, and it was biased to about ~5V (I think 5.2V) with a 12K bias resistor. But J201s have a pretty wide allowable variance on their spec sheet, hence why the PedalPCB board changed it to a...

A while back I wanted to build an Ionizer with a tone control so I used the old passive Retro-fit Tone Control, but it could no longer get up to unity volume and I needed to add a veroboard LPB-1 too. This board would’ve been a boon.

About 0.8V, same neighborhood as MA856/8/9 and BA282/3

The build doc lists 1N914 looks like?

The KoT/PoT clipping diodes have a *slightly* higher Fv than 1N4148s, which gives them a *slightly* different clipping characteristic (that you probably wouldn't really notice if nobody'd told you to listen for, but it is there). The MA856/858/859 are what were in the originals, but they're not...

As per this FSB thread that both @Robert and the designer Chris Benson both participated in: https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=30027&start=80 Q1 - 5V (one poster said 5.2V gave the least clipping, but basically the original Benson pedal doesn’t have a trimpot for Q1 at all, the...

So I think I was incorrect about EQD being 100K, at least the Afterneath they say 50K explicitly, and for everything else it seems they recommend the Moog EP-3 which is also 50K

Depends on what you plan on controlling, unfortunately it’s not really standardized across the industry :/ I know Line 6 is 10K, I think EQD is usually 100K? EDIT - found this, it’s Reddit so I don’t know that I’d trust it to a certainty but

Or the good ol' "replace the linear taper pot with an audio taper pot", should better distribute the volume around the dial

Here's a pic showing how I did it last time

The VTL5C4s go here (the LED legs go in the LED holes and make sure you get the polarity right, the other two legs go in the LDR holes)

Oh dang they really are. If someone wants to double-check me, to do a Gainster on the Red Herring Board: IC1 - JRC072 R2 - 10K C1 - 100n C2 - 120p R6 - 10K C5 - 2n2 VOLUME - A500K C4 - OMIT CUT - replace with a 22K resistor between pins 1 and 3 And you’ve got a Gainster (the “BITE” is the...

It’s weird it says that, the schematic definitely looks like the gainster (except I think the OG gainster uses an 072 and big-ass PIO caps), a bufferless OD-1 with a presence control right?

No the pin spacing is only 2.54mm, too small for the footprint

Ooh, may need to try them again

I have noticed recently that the PedalPCB drill template guide doesn’t fit square on top of Tayda’s 125Bs and has a decent amount of wiggle room. If I leave the plastic wrap on while using my drill punch it’s better but still not perfect. (Sadly they’re *still* a better fit for the drill guide...

OP specifically wants to use the ADHD’s JFET bypass buffer though. Which I bet is doable, just use the buffer board as your master switch, but I’m sure it’ll involve knowing where those two “EB” pads go

But then the bypass isn’t buffered