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Thanks. I assume that changing the 1-4 switches should not cause the pedal to go silent. From the schematic they appear to engage or bypass the tubes.

Reread my post. I was just asking what the various switches did. I don’t yet need anyone to look at the build. Thanks

I got this thing built and it works somewhat they way it's supposed to. I'm getting some sound cutouts based on some switch positions and some whistling. I've re-flowed solder for all the switches. The rotary switch causes some cut-outs depending on where it's set. Before I post photos and...

I keep them in full page covers with the build document.

I haven’t done much playing yet. I need to box it up to more easily use all the dials and switches. What will be odd is that half the pots will work in reverse due to how they had to be situated on the board,

Got mine on ebay and just got it working today once I installed the correct voltage regulator and replaced a resistor and diode. I'm surprised it worked without much debugging.

I agree with Giovanni. Always check the active components. Plus voltages. Op Amps are easy. I usually make sure of the original signal onto the board and then probe the pots. In my experience bad soldering is a usually cause or even forgetting to solder part of component. Sometimes a diode...

I ordered a PCB that uses a type G pot. What can I substitute for it? The one graph I’ve seen, it tracks closely to a B type. Thanks

I bought mechanical ones from Amazon. 3 for something like $10. They work great. It easily desolders pots and switches, i have a couple of desoldering irons that work by squeezing and releasing the bulb. They take forever to get hot enough and work poorly.

I am currently building this. eBay is where I got mine. I'm waiting for more parts to finish it.

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What might cause a major signal drop after passing through (left to right) the diodes shown. Bad diodes, wrong orientation? Or should there actually be a major signal drop? There is continuity between the diodes and the resistors. I'm really just looking for theoretical possibilities as I...

Before I get back to this should the guitar signal be traceable through all the various ICs? Or are some sections and pots used to control voltage and current into other sections where the signal travels. I’m not familiar with how this type of compressor works. Got back to it. I replaced...

I’ll check the I/O grounding but they should be common with the power on the debug rig. I checked the parts and reflowed the soldering. I’ll try some part substitution. I’ve built over 100 pedals and this makes me wary of the other Dead FX I have on deck. They require some really obscure...

Yeah, I forgot about the photos. I inserted the cathode legs of the LEDs into the pad connected to ground. I assumed the switch lugs corresponded to the board's numbered pads and the switch is: 1 4 2 5 3 6 One more thing I forgot to mention was that the first time I turned it on it...

Got this built but when engaged, I'm getting a periodic click once the Ratio control is turned above zero. It does not appear to do anything to the guitar signal. I am unfamiliar with the LM13700 IC. There are several questions beside the original: 1. Which lead should go ito the square pad...

It appears the drill template does not match the pot and LED orientations. The LEDs holes in the enclosure are off the board. You can't just drop them down from board and through the drilled hole. You have to solder them in and bend them toward the hole. Did I miss something?

Thanks for the reply. I have earned a bunch here. All I wanted to know really was were we getting a build document. But that post was never getting answered. So, I was half serious about the refund request. But that certainly got some attention. What's so hard about producing a build doc...

Fair enough. But "coming Soon" on the PCB's page has been there for a while and a search of the forums seems to show it's been missing for a while. But I'm gone from here after the nasty replies on my "Refund" post.

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