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That power supply is great for experimenting with, I ended up using that circuit to power a 1 watt amplifier pedal I made. I used the power amp part of Rob Robinette's 1 watt Bassman 5F6A-M amplifier with that same circuit power supply but I made it all onto one PCB which fitted into a 1590BB...

What we really need is for a C2CE pedal that is a small tube power amp pedal, I built one for myself using the C2CE power supply and it puts out about 1 watt. I used a "Musical Power Supplies" output transformer because it goes low enough for Bass guitar as well, and I built the AMP part of a...

You can also get some nice power amps in pedal form these days, they are not that powerful but for guitar they are plenty strong enough. I have seen several pedals that go up to 50 watts and more, and plenty that are lower power as well. For a practice amp I would just get a small class D amp...

I would just put the class AB amp in the box and run the Sushi......ops.......the C2CE pedals into it, but since I have built nearly all the pedals I can just use the tone I want on the day. I haven't completed my Wrecking Ball yet (box being made by Tayda right now) and I am also waiting for...

The resistors are in the wrong place, if you remove the resistors it will work fine. (just bridge them out) The resistors would go from 2-5 and 2-6 on that drawing, they are not needed but I would put them in so the caps can sort of reach the right voltage level in case they are switched in. I...

Just a heads up for anyone ordering an enclosure from Tayda for a Wrecking Ball, you will need to order extra drill holes because only 40 holes are included in the normal drill service and the Wrecking Ball has 42 holes in the drill files. I just deleted the 2 holes for the in / out jacks on my...

For people like me who live NOT in the US I could just do with ordering the PCB since it would take about 2 weeks before it arrives Under Downunder at my place, so I don't need the build docs for 2 weeks after I order the PCB. I think the drill files and artwork is more important to me since...

I bought a digital voltmeter / ammeter from Tayda and put a male and a female 2.1mm DC plug on it, I just place it between my power supply and the pedal I am checking. The voltmeter-Ammeter cost me a huge $1.59, I was lucky I had plenty of spare DC plugs and sockets or I might have been in...

And don't forget the Artwork files that go with the Drill template. I have some spare Unagi transformers so I just need the PCB as well, and the PCB will usually take about 2 weeks to get to me Under Downunder. If I could order the PCB I would not need the Artwork or the Drill Template...

This is the reason I have several jewelers loupe's on my workbench, I have 10x, 20x, and 30x magnification just to inspect my solder joints on all my builds. My loupes are cheap ones from fleabay but they do the job perfectly, I would advice everyone to get some of these because you will be...

For a flat response you want the Bass and Treble on 0, if you turn the Bass up it increases the bass response but if you leave the Bass on 0 and turn up the Treble then the treble increases and it will cut some of the bass as well. Nobelium uses a standard Fender tone stack except the mid is set...

If I did it on a HV capacitor I think I would add a resistor (2M-5M) to each extra cap to pre-charge it up to HV, I don't think the resistor will change anything tone wise but will help with pops and arching in the switch. The caps would have to be HV caps just like they are paralleling. I don't...

It makes it a lot easier to understand when you see the graphs for the frequencies, that's why I love the Ampbooks calculators. I only found them last year myself, I have hardly ever worked on anything with tubes until very recently, the only times I did was on some very old machines in a...

The only thing I can pick on is that it looks like you soldered the pots onto the PCB without mounting them in the box first, otherwise it looks like a good build. When you solder pots and switches onto the PCB it is best to mount them loosely onto the PCB, maybe bend the leads a tiny bit so...

Would you be able to take some pictures of the pot side of the board so we can see if there is a problem ? If you post some pictures it might be obvious to someone else what the problem is. Thanks Mick

I am curious if there is any progress on the drill files or the artwork for this one, I keep stalling a Tayda order so I can include the Steddi-Go box in the order. I don't care if I order the box before i get the PCB, and I have already worked out the schematic weeks ago. Hopefully the...

This is how I would add a deep switch, that way I could have it original or deep tone if I wanted to. I would not mount C2 on the PCB, I would run 2 wires from the PCB holes for C2 to a DPDT switch and then mount the capacitors on the switch. It would be a lot easier to change the caps on the...

The frequency range is usually determined by basic high pass and low pass filters in amplifiers, there are other filters as well like the bright caps which are like a treble pass pass filter, I am still trying to get up to speed on all this since I have only worked on industrial electronics and...

You should have voltage on the left side of R12, the right side of R12 goes to pin 4 of the switch PCB which is grounded through the switch and then to ground at pin 3 of the PCB. The left side of R12 goes to the 2 right pins that go to the tube PCB, the 2 pins then go to the right side of the...

Check the voltages on pin 3 and 4 of the foot switch PCB, (1 on left and 6 on right), pin 3 should go to ground and pin 4 goes to R12. R12 is the voltage drop resistor for the led, the left side goes to the LED and the right side goes to the foot switch (pin 4).