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Did you figure this one out ? Is the mode switch the correct ON-ON-ON switch or could an ON-OFF-ON switch have gone in by mistake ?

The walkthrough was very easy to understand and the templates look good, I do have one little request though.... Would it be hard for you to make a template for the Ambassador and the Black Eye that has "For Bass" in the bottom right corner ? I am making them with bass mods and normal so I would...

There might be a small solder bridge between pins 7 and 8 on the 555 timer on the bottom of the PCB. It's very small and hard to see so I am not sure.

Well I cant shake the symptoms, every day I find myself checking to see if the shop is open yet. I have a feeling it wont be too much longer till I am cured, I keep sensing new PCB's being stacked up ready for me to buy.:)

Can you take another picture with better lighting ? I find it very hard to see the colour bands on the resistors.

You need to take as much time as you AND your family need you to take, they come before anything else, and you are no good to anyone if you are not well and healthy. I understand about needing sleep and being tired, I used to work too much when I was young as well and it gets to you in the long...

I think I have a problem, every day I check to see if there are any PCB's for sale at C2CE even though I know there won't be. I check Talk Bass and PedalPCB forums every day as it is so I know there would be a notification put up if Nathan was back in the shop, I still keep checking Sushi Box...

Just wondering if you have had a chance to look for the Supersonic Tayda Drill Template yet ? I would still like it just so I can make a fascia template for when I eventually make a Supersonic. I will order one when you get some more PCB's in stock. Thanks Mick

He installed a Mute switch in his build, (Which I am going to copy ) He placed it on the wire between the In jack and In on the PCB. Post 292 on the Talkbass forum https://www.talkbass.com/threads/conspiracy-to-commit-electronics-megathread.1640493/page-15

Could I be cheeky and suggest you try some 2M switches in your future revisions instead of 1M switches ? The 1M switches are 0.41mm longer then the 9mm pots when mounted so you can get some tension on the PCB if not careful. The 2M switches are 0.17mm shorter then a 9mm pot as long as you leave...

If you get some Lumberg KLBM3 1/4" jacks you should have no problem with that (I think). They are less bulky then the jacks you have in there now. They are my favorite jack for stompboxes. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/6-35mm-1-4-plugs-jacks/6-35mm-1-4-mono-phone-jack-socket.html

I think it would be better to run the heaters at 12V if possible, it's amazing how much voltage drop you can get in a normal PCB copper trace. Running at 6V you carry twice the amps compared to 12V and it is the amps that cause the voltage drop (without getting too technical guys) It might just...

Just for general information, there are many different tube heater voltages used over the full spectrum of tubes out there. If you need a tube running on a specific heater voltage you just have to find a tube that will match your circuit as close as possible, many tubes are very similar but with...

This is a trace I did from the Nobelium PCB when I got my PCB, I think it is correct but I will not guarantee it. I always trace any PCB I get to better understand the circuit before I build them. Cheers Mick

It sound just perfect for what I want, my Ashdown ABM500 is the only bass amp I have at home at the moment and it is just a little bit to big for indoors (so I have been told). I think a small versatile amp I can use with pedal preamps will suit me just perfect for guitar and bass at home, I...

The 12AT7 can go up to 15mA in JJ's datasheet, but then we are talking about the limiting current. I would think that an amp that is warming up and no signal it should not pull much at all on the HV, when max signal is applied it would increase the mA but not all the way to the max mA the tube...

The mounting pin of the potentiometer connects to ground and so too does one leg of R19. It looks correct to me, they should both be connected to ground.

I would increase the resistance of the 470k resistor (R21) that is on the left side of the 100uF capacitor. I thought that the bright cap (C13 180pF just above R21) would cause the highs to bypass the volume pot, especially at low volumes. The Bright cap would also bypass the added resistor on...

A rough guide to the gain of the valves