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OK. Its been a little while since my last update. I finally got the board in my above post installed: and can firmly state that it is fuckin...not great. Wi-Fi connectivity is garbage. Disconnects, doesn't reconnect until you reboot the thing. Garbage. But, it's a nice controller...

Don't help so much when they're recessed, unfortunately. At that point you gotta drill em and grab an ez out. I'll go on record and say that the pozidriv is the superior fastener drive, too. Phillips is balls.

Steel works. But you're gonna wear down your tip faster. Brass is better. But a wet sponge is needed sometimes. Personally? Scissors, kitchen. Boom. Done.

Fucking right they are. Jeeeezus I see this all the time at work. Circuit breakers, terminals, contactors, and motor starters all stripped to shit because some asshole didn't realize they were working with a pozidriv. Thing is...sure. it kinda works. Just like how you can kinda get away...

The great thing about the hater contest is that it absorbs all negativity. It is a supermassive black hole, and it's event horizon begins at "meh". I would say something like "behold" but like...you can't...really...see...black...eh... Hmm. Got a retool this one.

It'll read iceo on an npn. Could be pretty low. Could be super high. I've had both happen. Out of curiosity, what's the gain sitting on those?

Q1 and Q3 in a tonebender need some leakage. All depends on the design, some folks engineered a degree of leakiness to their advantage

Some germs take longer than others to stabilize. The TC-1 generally does a quick test that doesn't really take this natural settling into account. What that means, though, is that you can generally expect the leakage and gain values read by the tc-1 to be slightly higher than a stabilized...

Honestly? The big battery does last longer. Never knew why before. Batteries are...eh...fickle. You might see that there's a protection circuit board that the leads are soldered to on all of these: this disconnects the battery once it reaches a certain low voltage state in order to prevent...

Some of us are more interested in the minutiae of brand-building and mythology than the actual, you know, nuts and bolts of doing the selling of the pedals thing. Not I, though. I have my factory of entirely legally employed children building and selling my pedals in the second dimension like...

Ol cannabis cigarette victory here likes to brag. Too thick, they say. Too long, they say. Nah. He gon' make it fit. Sheitteeee. I can't talk. Mines two dimensional.

Too big! 14mm thick that guy. Probably end up interfering with the JST XH connector too: 74's about 9mm longer than I'd go.

Did some reading: The folks in eevblog have been discussing these for a while: the general consensus is that lots of these use counterfeit or alternate MCU chips, and that the original open-source hardware was designed explicitly for the Amtel MCU chips. Which may end up impacting the...

Also! These suckers aren't all the same. Topsides got a 300mah battery. Bottom is 1100. Dayumn.

Looking at mine: 8x65x65 is about the max dimensions on my variant.

Two, in fact! I'll be honest: that's my favorite of the widespread commercially available aftermarket inductors. Out of a brief shoot-out test that I performed. I believe that one in particular is also made by Eleca. I say that, because it uses the same baseplate and clip hardware that comes...

Dunno, haven't really looked into the exact details yet. GitHub has some stuff. It's an amtel microprocessor: you can absolutely update the firmware on these guys. You just kinda...you know...gotta access the pins. Which is the catch. So...a steady hand + some very thin wires + a...

Speaking of the TC1: Some dude made a 3d model of the back that would accept a pair of 18650s. Could potentially get 20x the runtime out of it. Also...it is possible to update the firmware on these. It just isn't super...uhh....practical

I for one welcome our rob...oh forget it.

Bruh. The irony here is making my head hurt.